In an Unknown Prison Land: An account of convicts and colonists in New Caledonia with jottings out and homeGriffith, George Chetwynd
History
In an Unknown Prison Land: An account of convicts and colonists in New Caledonia with jottings out and home
Griffith, George Chetwynd
Crime; Criminals; New Caledonia -- Social conditions -- 19th century; Penal colonies -- New Caledonia
I stood it for nearly an hour, and then I concluded that even the smell
was preferable to suffocation, so I opened the windows and went out on
the balcony to scratch and say things to the accompaniment of the song of
many vocal insects. The next morning I went down into the yard to cool my
wounds in a corrugated iron bathroom, which, with true French colonial
forethought, had been built within two yards of an open cesspool. A
shower-bath in tropical countries is usually a luxury as well as a
necessity. In Noumea it was only a necessity.
When I set out for my first stroll round Noumea the morning after my
arrival the sun was shining out of a sky of unflecked blue. A delicious
breeze was flowing down the mountain-sides. The scent of fruit and
flowers was everywhere atoning for the stench of that backyard. I took
in long breaths of the sweet, soft air, and began to wonder whether that
black Spectre really was haunting such a paradise as this.
Then I turned into the Place des Cocotiers, which is to Noumea what the
Champs Elysées are to Paris—a broad square shaded by blazing flamboyants
and flanked by rows of coco-palms. The next moment I saw a long,
four-wheeled, white-curtained vehicle being driven rapidly through it. It
was the ambulance, and inside it lay some stricken wretch. Who—yes, who
was it? A question of some significance to one who might have had to say
“here!” to the dread summons before the next sun rose.
I went under the verandah of the Hotel de France, which fronts the
square, and ordered a _limonade_, so that I might ask the news. Yes, it
was the ambulance, and its occupant was one of the white girls. In three
days she was to be the first white bride of the Black Death. It was
rumoured that there were six new cases that morning, but the Sanitary
Commission very wisely only reported two “suspected” cases and one death.
If they had told the truth for a few days more there would have been
panic, and panic is the best—or worst—helpmeet of disease, especially in
a place like Noumea.
From the hotel I wandered along the shady sidewalks of the broad streets,
and presently found myself in a quarter of the town which looked as if it
had been bombarded. The houses were wrecked and roofless. Some of them
were smouldering still, and some were cold, skeleton ruins. It was here
that the Black Death had found its first victims. They were only Kanakas
and Tonkinois, so their families had been cleared out, and their houses
and belongings burnt.
Farther on up the hill leading to the military reservation I saw all
that was left of what had once been a pretty villa standing in its own
grounds, a garden such as one sees only in the tropics. This had been the
house of the first white victim, a young fellow of splendid physique, who
had fought the Demon through three weeks of torture, dying by inches in
multiplying horrors unspeakable.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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