Castles -- France; Touraine (France) -- Description and travel
"Jolly old robbers they were," says Walter, "and always on top when
there was any fighting to be done. I must say, quite aside from the
question of right or wrong, that I have much more sympathy with them
than with the Johnny Crapauds. Here, in this foreign land of France, the
Plantagenet kings seem quite our own, and only a few removes in
consanguinity from our early Presidents."
We were glad to lay claim to the Cathedral of St. Gatien, which in a way
belongs to us, as the choir was begun by Henry II of England, although
it is to be regretted that a quarrel between this Plantagenet king and
Louis VII resulted in a fire which destroyed much of the good work. We
lingered long in the cloisters, and climbed up the royal staircase, with
its beautiful openwork vaulting to the north tower, from whose top we
may see as far as Azay-le-Rideau on a clear day.
This was, of course, not a clear day, as we are having hazy August
weather, so we did not see Azay, but from the tower we gained quite a
good idea of the general plan of Tours, and stopped long enough in the
cloisters to learn that the picturesque little gallery, called the
Cloitre de la Psallette, was the place where the choir boys were once
trained. The facade of this cathedral seemed to us a beautiful example
of Renaissance style, although said to offend many of the canons of
architecture. We are thankful that we do not know enough about the
principles of architecture to be offended by so beautiful a creation,
and inside the church we were so charmed by the exquisite old glass,
staining the marble pillars with red, blue and violet, that we failed
to notice that the aisles are too narrow for perfect harmony. The
jewel-like glass of the Lady Chapel was brought here from the old church
of St. Julian in the Rue Nationale, once the Rue Royale, and is
especially lovely.
In a chapel in the right-hand transept we saw the tomb of the little
children of Charles VIII and Anne of Brittany, by whose early death the
throne of France passed to the Valois branch of the Orleans family.
Looking at the faces of these two children sleeping here side by side,
the little one with his hands under the ermine marble, the elder with
his small hands folded piously together, a wave of sympathy passed over
us for the unhappy mother who was in a few months deprived of both her
precious babies. As we stood by the tomb with its two quaint little
figures, guarded by kneeling angels at their heads and feet, beautiful,
appropriate, reverent, we wondered why modern sculptors fall so far
behind the ancient in work of this sort. The moderns may know their
anatomy better, but in sweetness and tender poetic expression the work
of the old artists is infinitely superior. This charming little group
was probably made by Michael Colombe, although it has been attributed to
several other sculptors of the time.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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