Castles -- France; Touraine (France) -- Description and travel
After a visit to the archbishop's palace, and a short stop at the
museum, which attracted us less than the outdoor world on this pleasant
day, we stopped at the Quai du Pont Neuf to look at the statues of
Descartes and Rabelais, so picturesquely placed on each side of the Pont
de Pierre. Retracing our steps by the Rue Nationale we strolled into the
interesting old church of St. Julian, where we admired the vast nave of
noble proportions and the beautiful stained glass. After wandering at
will through several streets with no especial object in view, we found
ourselves in a charming little park where we were interested in a
monument to three good physicians of Tours, a recognition of valiant
service to humanity that might well be followed by our American cities.
Just here my inveterate American reminded me of the monument in Boston
to the discoverer of ether, and that to Dr. Hahnemann in Washington.
"Both of them monstrosities of bad taste!" exclaimed Miss Cassandra, as
we turned into the Rue Emile Zola, and along the Rue Nationale to the
Palais de Justice, in one of whose gardens is a fine statue of the great
novelist who was born in the Maison de Balzac, near by on the Rue
Nationale. Through the streets George Sand and Victor Hugo, we found our
way to the theatre and then back to the Boulevard Beranger, upon which
our pension is situated.
"It is," as Miss Cassandra says, "a liberal education to walk through
the streets of these old French towns, and whatever may be the
shortcomings of the French, as a nation, they cannot be accused of
forgetting their great people."
As we stroll through these thoroughfares and parks we are constantly
reminded by a name on a street corner or a statue that this Touraine is
the land of Balzac, Rabelais, Descartes, and in a way of Ronsard and
George Sand, as the chateaux of La Poissonniere and Nohant are not far
away. Here they, and many another French writer, walked and dreamed,
creating characters so lifelike that they also walk with us through
these quaint streets and byways or look out from picturesque doorways.
We can fancy the Cure de Tours emerging from the lovely Cloitre de la
Psallette of St. Gatien or the still lovelier cloister of old St.
Martin's; or we can see poor Felex de Vandenesse making his way across
the park, Emile Zola, with his meagre lunch basket on his arm. We have
not yet tasted the _rillons_ and _rillettes_ so prized by the school
children of Tours, and so longed for by Felex when he beheld them in the
baskets of his more fortunate companions. Lydia reminds us that Balzac
was at some pains to explain that this savory preparation of pork is
seldom seen upon the aristocratic tables of Tours, and as our pension is
strictly aristocratic and exclusive, it is doubtful if we ever see
_rillons_ and _rillettes_ upon Madame B----'s table.
September 1st.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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