Castles -- France; Touraine (France) -- Description and travel
We drove out this morning through the little village of St. Anne to the
old chateau of Plessis-les-Tours, which Louis built and fortified to
suit his fancy and his fears, for great and powerful as he was he seems
to have been a most timid mortal. Of the "hidden pitfalls, snares and
gins" with which the old King surrounded his castle we could not expect
to find a trace, but we were disappointed to see nothing left of the
three external battlemented walls or the three gates and dungeon-keep,
which Sir Walter Scott described, the latter rising "like a black
Ethiopian giant high into the air."
With our Quentin Durward in our hands, we read of Plessis-les-Tours as
the novelist pictured it for us in the light of romance. Of course Sir
Walter never saw this chateau, but like many other places that he was
not able to visit, it was described to him by his friend and neighbor,
Mr. James Skene, Laird of Rubislaw, who while travelling in France kept
an accurate diary, enlivened by a number of clever drawings, all of
which he placed at the novelist's disposal. From this journal, says
Lockhart, Sir Walter took the substance of the original introduction to
Quentin Durward. As Mr. James Skene is said to have given his friend
most accurate descriptions of the buildings and grounds, it is safe to
conclude that the chateau has been entirely remodelled since the days
when the young Scottish archer listened to the voice of the Countess
Isabelle, as she sang to the accompaniment of her lute while he acted as
sentinel in the "spacious latticed gallery" of the chateau. It is
needless to say that we failed to discover the spacious gallery or the
maze of stairs, vaults, and galleries above and under ground which are
described as leading to it. Nor did we see any traces of the
fleur-de-lis, ermines, and porcupines which are said to have adorned the
walls at a later date. Indeed the empty, unfurnished rooms and halls,
guiltless of paintings or tapestries, were so dismal that we hurried
through them. As if to add an additional note of discord to the
inharmonious interior, a "vaccination museum" has been established in
one of the ancient rooms. We stopped a moment to look at the numerous
caricatures of the new method of preventing the ravages of smallpox;
one, that especially entertained Walter, represented the medical faculty
as a donkey in glasses charged upon by vaccine in the form of a furious
cow.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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