Castles -- France; Touraine (France) -- Description and travel
We hoped to find in the grounds some compensation for the cheerlessness
of the interior of the castle; but here again we were doomed to
disappointment. The vast lawn and extensive parterres, which caused the
park of Plessis-les-Tours to be spoken of as the Garden of France, have
long since disappeared, and all that we could find was a grass-grown
yard with some neglected flower beds, surrounded by a hedge of fusane, a
kind of laurel with a small white flower that grows here in great
profusion. We made an effort to see, or to fancy that we saw, an
underground passage that was pointed out to us as that which once led to
the dungeon upon whose stone foundation was placed the iron cage in
which Cardinal la Balue was confined. Of the series of fosses which once
enclosed the chateau we found some remains, but of the solid ramparts
flanked by towers, where a band of archers were once posted by night and
day, and of the bristling _chevaux-de-frise_ nothing was to be seen.
Walter wishes you to tell Allen that the greatest disappointment of all
is that there is no oak forest anywhere near Plessis from whose boughs
the victims of Louis were wont to hang "like so many acorns," one of
Scott's bits of realism that appealed to his boyish imagination.
We were glad to turn our backs upon the modern brick building which
occupies the site of the ancient stronghold of Plessis and to drive home
by a farm called La Rabatiere, whose fifteenth century building is said
to have been the manor house of Olivier le Daim, familiarly called
Olivier le Diable, the barber-minister of Louis. Our driver, who is
somewhat of an historian, and like a loyal Tournageau is proud of the
associations of his town, good and bad alike, was delighted to show us
this old home of Olivier who was, he informed us, the executioner of his
master's enemies of high degree, while Tristan l'Hermite attended to
those of less distinction, having, as Louis warned Quentin, "For him
whose tongue wagged too freely an amulet for the throat which never
failed to work a certain cure." The house of Tristan, our _cocher_ told
us, we should find in one of the narrow streets of the old part of
Tours, which we have not yet explored.
VI
LANGEAIS AND AZAY-LE-RIDEAU
PENSION B----, TOURS, September 3rd.
WHEN we started toward Langeais this afternoon we were pleased to think
that our way was much the same as that which Felix took in search of his
"Lily of the Valley." The Loire lay before us just as he described
it,--"a long watery ribbon which glistens in the sun between two green
banks, the rows of poplars which deck this vale of love with moving
tracery, the oak woods reaching forward between the vineyards on the
hillsides which are rounded by the river into constant variety, the soft
outlines crossing each other and fading to the horizon."
[Illustration: MEDIAEVAL STAIRWAY, CHATEAU OF LUYNES]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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