Castles -- France; Touraine (France) -- Description and travel
Lydia and I objected, for after the complete and harmonious furnishing
of Langeais the interior of Azay-le-Rideau seems a trifle bare, as only
two or three of the rooms are thoroughly furnished. As the property now
belongs to the State and is in the care of L'Ecole des Beaux Arts, which
is gradually collecting rare and beautiful articles of furniture, this
compact little chateau will soon be completely equipped as a Renaissance
museum.
The room of Francis I is shown, with handsome carved bed and rich
hangings of turquoise blue damask, adjoining it the room in which Louis
XIV slept, which is hung in crimson damask. These rooms, with some fine
tapestries, scattered articles of furniture and a number of portraits,
complete the present equipment of Azay-le-Rideau. Among the portraits
that interested us was one of Catherine de Medicis by Clouet, and
another by the same artist of Francis I, as he so often appears in his
portraits, "with the insufferable smile upon his lips that curl upward
satyr-like towards the narrow eyes, the crisp close-cut brownish beard
and the pink silken sleeves and doublet." Near by, in strong contrast to
the sensual face of Francis, hangs the clear-cut face of Calvin. Here
also are the portraits of Henry of Navarre and the wife for whom he
cared so little, the beautiful Marguerite of Valois, less beautiful in
her portrait than one would expect, and of the woman whom he loved so
deeply, Gabrielle d'Estrees, Duchess of Beaufort.
A charm of romance ever surrounds the graceful figure of Gabrielle
d'Estrees, whom the usually inconstant Henry seems to have loved
tenderly and faithfully to the end of her days. Many persons have
excused this connection of the King with _la belle Gabrielle_ because of
his loveless and enforced marriage with his cousin Marguerite, who was
faithful to her royal husband only when his life or his throne were in
danger. At such times she would fly to his aid like a good comrade. The
handsomest and the most brilliant and daring of the unfortunate and
ill-fated brood of the dreadful Catherine, Marguerite seems to have been
particularly happy when she was able to thwart the malicious designs of
her mother, from whose plots the King of Navarre so often escaped that
he was said to have borne a charmed life.
As we quitted the chateau to wander through its lovely gardens, gay with
many flowers, and over the lawn with its fine copper beeches, exquisite
mimosa trees, hemlocks, and delicate larches, we thought of the many
great lords and noble ladies who had walked over this fair demesne and,
like us, had stopped to enjoy the soft breezes by the side of the little
river where the birches spread their long branches over the gently
flowing stream. So near the great world and yet so retired from it, it
is not strange that Francis, and the kings who followed him, should have
often turned from the turmoil and unrest of the court to enjoy this
happy valley.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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