Japan -- Foreign relations -- Korea; Korea; Korea -- Foreign relations -- Japan
The marble pagoda is at the same time the most notable existing monument
of Buddhism in Korea and the most interesting art-object in Seoul. It
came, however, from abroad; tradition connects its gift with a Mongol
princess who, after the death of Kublai Khan, came to Korea in 1310 to
become the queen-consort of King Chung-sun. It was brought in a junk from
China and at first erected in the grounds of a temple in the little town
of Hanyang—the predecessor of Seoul on the same site; for the capital
of the present dynasty was not then built. The temple grounds were
beautified in its honor; roads were constructed leading to it; and a
bridge was built over a stream running near by. But the Korean inevitable
happened to it—the fate meted out to all that shows signs of order,
industry, or art, when not of immediate selfish interest to the rulers
of Korea. The roads, encroached upon by surrounding hovels, became foul
and narrow alleys; a squatter built his straw-thatched hut about it;
and the stream became the main sewer of the city, which is cleaned only
by the downpour of the summer rains. Thus, as says our chronicler: “The
gift to Korea of one of the mighty Mongol Khans, whose arms had literally
shaken the world, became the impedimenta of a Korean coolie’s backyard,
sixteen by twenty feet square!” What wonder, however, in a land where
court officials and palace hangers-on do not hesitate to-day to steal the
screens, and other presents from foreign monarchs and plutocrats, out
from under His Majesty’s very eyes.[2]
The pagoda itself, which has now been cleared from the clutter of huts
and made the central object in Seoul’s first attempt at the beginnings
of a public park, deserves a brief description. It is of white marble,
much stained by time, war, and neglect, and was originally thirteen
stories in height; although only ten of these are now standing, while
the upper three have been removed and rest beside it on the ground. The
base and first six stories have twenty sides; the remainder are squares.
Each story is symmetrically diminished in size; some have galleries with
curved eaves and upturned corners. The ornamentation is exceedingly
complicated and abstruse in its symbolism and suggestiveness. There are
sculptured upon the flat surfaces processions of tigers, dragons, men on
foot and on horseback, teachers discoursing in groves, pictures taken
from the traditional life of Buddha, and various bas-reliefs of different
Buddhas. The lower stories are composed of several blocks of carved
stone, but the smaller and upper stories are monoliths.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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