XXXVIII Night marching--The Lafan and Mafan Lakes--Tize, the sacred Kelas--Rhubarb--Butterflies--A hermit Lama--More Dacoits--Surrounded by them--Routed Pp. 211-216 XXXIX Spied and followed by robbers--Jogpas' hospitality--Hares--Tibetan charms resisted--Attempt to snatch Chanden Sing's rifle out of his hands--The ridge between the Rakas and Mansarowar Lakes Pp. 217-219 XL More robbers--The friends of Tibetan authorities--A snap-shot--A meek lot--Prepossessing female and her curious ways--The purchase of two yaks Pp. 220-224 XLI Tibetan coats, hats, and boots--Why a Tibetan prefers to leave half the chest and one arm bare--Ornamentations--Manner and speech--Ignorance and superstition--Way of eating--Jogpa women and children--Head-dress Pp. 225-230 XLII A Daku's strange ideas--The ridge between the two lakes--Black tents--Confronting the two lakes--A chain of high peaks--Gombas--Change in the weather Pp. 231-234 XLIII The Langa Tsangpo--A terrific storm--Drenched to the skin--Heavy marching--Against the gods--Difficulty in finding the Lamasery and village--A bark!--Arrival at last--Gentle tapping--Under a roof Pp. 235-238 XLIV The interior of a _serai_--Vermin--Fish, local jewellery, and pottery for sale--Favourite shapes and patterns--How pottery is made Pp. 239-241 XLV Friendly Lamas--Chanden Sing and Mansing purified--Mansing's sarcasm--Pilgrims to Mansarowar and their privileges--For luck!--Outside the Gomba Pp. 242-244 XLVI Entering the Lamasery--The Lama's dwelling--Novices--Were we in a trap?--Images--Oblations--Urghin--The holy water, the veil of friendship, and absolution--Musical instruments, books, &c.--God and the Trinity--Heaven and hell--A mystery Pp. 245-248 XLVII The Jong Pen's statements regarding me--Sects of Lamas--Lamaseries--Government allowance--Ignorance of the crowds--How Lamas are recruited--Lamas, novices, and menials--Dances and hypnotism--Infallibility--Celibacy and vice--Sculptors--Prayer-wheels and revolving instruments--Nunneries--Human bones for eating vessels and musical instruments--Blood-drinking Pp. 249-256 XLVIII Illnesses and remedies--Curious theories about fever--Evil spirits--Blacksmith and dentist--Exorcisms--Surgical operations--Massage and cupping--Incurable illnesses--Deformities--Deafness--Fits and insanity--Melancholia--Suicides Pp. 257-264 XLIX A Tibetan medicine-man--Lumbago, and a startling cure for it--Combustible fuses--Fire and butter--Prayers, agony and distortions--Strange ideas on medicine Pp. 265-267 L Tucker village--Chokdens--Houses--Flying prayers--Soldiers or robbers?--A stampede--Fresh provisions--Disappointment--Treachery--Shokas leave me--Observations--Five men, all counted! Pp. 268-270