LI The start with a further reduced party--A reconnaissance--Natural fortress--Black tents and animals--On the wrong tack--Slings and their use--A visit to a Tibetan camp--Mistaken for brigands--Bargaining and begging Pp. 271-275 LII What the men were like--Their timidity--Leather work--Metal work--Blades and swords--Filigree--Saddles and harness--Pack saddles Pp. 276-279 LIII Rain in torrents--A miserable night--A gorge--A gigantic inscription--Sheltered under boulders--A fresh surprise--Only two followers left Pp. 280-282 LIV My time fully occupied--Our own yak drivers--A heavy blow--Along the stream--Soldiers in pursuit of us--Discovered Pp. 283-286 LV An interview--Peace or war?--Gifts and the scarf of friendship--The _Kata_--The end of a friendly visit Pp. 287-289 LVI Rain in torrents--A swampy plain--The sun at last--Our yaks stolen and recovered Pp. 290-294 LVII Travelling Tibetans--Over a high pass--A friendly meeting--A proffered banquet--Ascent to 20,000 feet--Looking for the Gunkyo Lake--Surprised by a phantom army Pp. 295-297 LVIII A sleepless night--Watching our enemy--A picturesque sight--A messenger--Soldiers from Lhassa--Taken for a Kashmeree--The Gunkyo Lake Pp. 298-301 LIX In pleasant company--Unpopularity of the Lamas--Soldiers--Towards the Maium Pass--Grass--Threats--Puzzled Tibetans--The Maium Pass--Obos Pp. 302-305 LX The Maium Pass--Into the Yutzang province--Its capital--The Doktol province--Orders disregarded--The sources of the Brahmaputra--Change in the climate--The valley of the Brahmaputra--Running risks Pp. 306-308 LXI Expecting trouble--Along the Brahmaputra--A thunderstorm--A dilemma--A dangerous river--Swamped--Saved--Night disturbers--A new friend Pp. 309-312 LXII Leaving the course of the river--A pass--An arid plain--More vanishing soldiers--Another river--A _mani_ wall--_Mirage?_--A large Tibetan encampment--The chain of mountains north of us Pp. 313-315 LXIII A commotion--An invitation declined--The tents--Delicacies--The _Chokseh_ Pp. 316-320 LXIV Refusal to sell food--Women--Their looks and characteristics--The _Tchukti_--A Lhassa lady Pp. 321-326 LXV Polyandry--Marriage ceremonies--Jealousy--Divorce--Identification of children--Courtship--Illegitimacy--Adultery Pp. 327-333 LXVI Tibetan funerals--Disposal of their dead--By cremation--By water--Cannibalism--Strange beliefs--Revolting barbarity--Drinking human blood--The saints of Tibet Pp. 334-337 LXVII Another commotion--Two hundred soldiers--A stampede--Easy travelling--A long _mani_ wall--Mosquitoes Pp. 338-341