In the Land of Cave and Cliff DwellersSchwatka, Frederick
History
In the Land of Cave and Cliff Dwellers
Schwatka, Frederick
Chihuahua (Mexico : State) -- Description and travel; Sonora (Mexico : State) -- Description and travel; Tarahumara Indians
Their success has already invited the more avaricious, but less coldly
calculating Gentile; and while it is stating it a little strong to say
there is a "boom," or even indications of one, within the thirty to
sixty miles between villages, my conscience is not disturbed in saying
that I can at least agree with the great American poet that,
We hear the first low wash of waves
Where soon shall roll a human sea.
Already a railway was talked of, and the usual undue excitement was
manifested. Every stranger was supposed to have something to do
with it. Even my own little expedition was thought to be a sort of
preliminary reconnoissance. I have never constructed a railway in my
life, but I have been along the advancing lines of a number of new
ones, and have seen them grow from two iron rails in a wilderness to a
great country. I do not recall any that had much brighter prospects
ahead than the proposed one along the eastern slopes of the Sierra
Madres. That it must be built some day the resources of the country
clearly demand, and it is to be hoped that it will be at as early a
date as possible.
At La Ascension we were greatly indebted to Mr. Francis, a young
English gentleman, who literally placed his house at our disposal,
giving up his own room for our comfort. As there were no inns in La
Ascension except those of the lowest order, this generous hospitality
of the only Englishman in the town was warmly appreciated by us. One
of our wagons having met with a slight accident, we remained over
Sunday to await repairs. As soon as this was known to the inhabitants
invitations began to pour in to attend cockfights, and one of especial
magnitude was organized in our honor. The finest cocks in the place
were to take part, and the _presidente_ or mayor of the town would
preside. Then, to add distinction to the already exciting programme,
a _baile_ or ball was hastily gotten up for the evening. Hospitality
could go no farther in this out-of-the-way town, for the people were
really not rich enough to support a bullfight. Early in the morning,
before the population had recovered from the dissipations of the
previous night, we bade our hospitable host "good-by," and, wrapped in
our heaviest coats against the chill morning air, we started southward
toward Corralitos, about thirty-five or forty miles away. After
crossing wide _mesas_ and threading our way around the bases of many
picturesque groups of mountains, we came to the Casas Grandes River
and valley, and along this stream, literally alive with ducks, we
traveled for some hours. It was a great temptation to get out the guns
and shoot at the ducks that were calmly sailing by us on the broad and
rapid stream; but as we had neither dog nor boat it would have been
impossible to secure them had we done so. The consoling thought was
ours that the hacienda was not far distant, and there we would likely
find everything necessary to assist us in this or any other sport.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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