In the land of the lion and sun, or, modern Persia : $b Being experiences of life in Persia from 1866 to 1881Wills, C. J. (Charles James)
History
In the land of the lion and sun, or, modern Persia : $b Being experiences of life in Persia from 1866 to 1881
Wills, C. J. (Charles James)
Iran -- Description and travel; Wills, C. J. (Charles James), 1842-1912 -- Travel -- Iran
In some of these labels the Muscovite imagination fairly runs riot. You
see “Château d’Yquem,” “Schloss Johannisberg,” &c., but nobody ever seems
to drink them, and they are mere table ornaments. The rich drink nothing
but champagne of known and expensive brands, and bottled stout; while the
middle classes stick to “piver” (Russian beer) and vodki.
Tea, in tumblers, was continually being served, with a big slice of lemon
in it. The deck passengers, among whom were many rough Circassians, all
armed to the teeth, cuddled down into the nooks of the cargo, and managed
to keep themselves warm as best they could. They too always were drinking
tea, but they adopted a plan to economise sugar that I have noticed
constantly among the Russian poor: a bit of sugar is placed in the cheek,
and then the tea is swallowed in gulps; the poor fellows thus keeping up
a sort of delusion that they are swallowing sweet and hot tea, though the
mouth only, and not the tea, is really sweetened. There was none of the
exclusiveness of the Englishman. _A_ made tea, and regaled _B_, _C_, and
_D_; then _B_ treated the rest, and so on; when not asleep, eating, or
tea-drinking, the deck people were card-playing and smoking. The short
pipe was a good deal used, and passed from hand to hand, while the trader
class smoked the cigarette. All the men, and most of the women, wore a
sort of rough butcher-boot; and, from the state of the roads at Poti, any
other foot clothing for pedestrians would have been impossible.
We lay to off Sinope on the 7th (here the Russians, our little captain
took care to remind me, destroyed the Turkish fleet), but could not land
passengers, a gale blowing. We changed steamers at Batoum on the 10th.
The scenery at Batoum is very fine; the sea, without a wave, of a deep
blue; well-wooded hills and the Elburz range of the Caucasus covered with
snows forming the horizon. So warm was it here that we lay on the beach
throwing stones into the tranquil sea.
At last we arrived at Poti, being the fifth day from Constantinople. We
were put on a lighter with our baggage, and taken direct to the Custom
House; thence we got on a little steamer that was to take us up the Riom
river, and of this we had some twelve hours, the great part of the time
being occupied in getting aground, and getting off again.
From Poti to Merand we went in a telega, _en tröika_, some sixty versts,
over what was rather a track than a road, in thirteen hours.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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