In the land of the lion and sun, or, modern Persia : $b Being experiences of life in Persia from 1866 to 1881Wills, C. J. (Charles James)
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In the land of the lion and sun, or, modern Persia : $b Being experiences of life in Persia from 1866 to 1881
Wills, C. J. (Charles James)
Iran -- Description and travel; Wills, C. J. (Charles James), 1842-1912 -- Travel -- Iran
The tea used is generally scented Pekoe among the rich, and made very
weak. It is also always washed before it is allowed to draw. Persians do
not like strong tea.
In after years, in Persia, I was somewhat intrigued to make out why my
sweeper objected to sweep his carpets with tea-leaves, and it was only
on pressure that I extracted the fact that “the servants always dried my
strong black tea-leaves and sold them _as tea_ in the bazaar.”
After some chat in Persian, which Colonel G⸺ spoke in a masterly manner,
the Colonel asked for “the pipe of departure,” which, it appears, is
the best way of going, as it is considered polite to ask permission to
depart, and not to get up and go.
Our host was a largely-built, well-set-up man, dressed in a pair of
uniform trousers, stockings (he had removed his shoes on entering the
room), and a thick black frock-coat, such as the Turks wear, lined with
fur; he did not show any linen. His hair and beard were jetty black, as
was his heavy moustache. He wore a black Astrachan hat, which he did not
remove, and a sword. He insisted on coming to the door with us, and shook
hands in the most cordial manner.
As we were on the road home the Colonel asked me if I could give a guess
as to our friend’s age. I said, confidently, “From forty to forty-five.”
“He is probably eighty—certainly over seventy. The black hair which
you see is the result of dye. The whole of the upper classes, and all
townsmen, military or government employés, dye their hair; it is done
usually once or twice a week, and the substances used are, first henna,
then indigo. They are allowed to remain on many hours; the result is the
fine black dye you see. The villagers, as a rule, use only the henna,
which gives a deep purply-black to black hair, and a bright red to white.”
I was also told that when in deep mourning a Persian ceases to dye at all
(and, alas! at first he also ceases to wash); the result is comical in
the extreme, for one sees men with beards of some foot or more in length
half red or rusty black, and the rest quite white. When ill, too, he does
not dye.
Afterwards I could always by this means make a pretty shrewd guess, even
before asking the question, as to how long a patient had been on the
sick-list, by the length of the undyed part of his beard.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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