In the land of the lion and sun, or, modern Persia : $b Being experiences of life in Persia from 1866 to 1881Wills, C. J. (Charles James)
History
In the land of the lion and sun, or, modern Persia : $b Being experiences of life in Persia from 1866 to 1881
Wills, C. J. (Charles James)
Iran -- Description and travel; Wills, C. J. (Charles James), 1842-1912 -- Travel -- Iran
Above this is the coat, or “kemmercheen,” a tunic of coloured calico,
silk, satin, moiré, cloth, Cashmere, or Kerman shawl, gold embroidered
silk, satin, or velvet, according to the time of year and the purse
or position of the wearer. This, like the alkalūk, is open in front,
and shows the shirt. It has a small standing collar at times, and is
double-breasted. It has a pocket-hole on either side, giving access to
the pockets, which are always in the alkalūk, in which garment is the
breast-pocket, where watch, money, jewels, and seals are kept. The length
of the “kemmercheen” denotes the class of the wearer. The military and
official classes and the various “noker,” or servants, from the king’s
valet, who may be also prime minister, wear them short; that is to say,
to the knee, while fops and lutis (sharpers) wear them shorter even than
this. The priests, and merchants, and the villagers, especially about
Shiraz, and the townsmen and shopkeepers, with doctors and lawyers, wear
them very long, often nearly to their heels.
Over the kemmercheen is worn the kolajah, or coat. This is as a rule cast
off in summer, save on formal occasions, as when the wearer is performing
his functions or making a call, and is often borne by a servant or
carried over the shoulder by the owner himself. They are of cloth, shawl,
or camel-hair cloth, and are invariably lined throughout with either silk
or cloth, flannel, or even fur. They are like the Turkish frock-coat,
made with a very loose sleeve, and with many plaits behind. They have
lappels, as with us, and are trimmed with gold lace (derbeeri), shawl,
or fur, or at times worn quite plain; they have a roll collar and false
pockets.
Besides these garments there are others, as the long juba, or cloth
cloak. This ample and majestic garment is affected by mirzas
(secretaries), Government employés of high rank, as ministers, farmers
of taxes, courtiers, physicians, priests. The wearers carry a staff as a
rule. The jubas are made of the finest cloth, very amply cut. They have a
standing collar and long sleeves. These sleeves are from one to two feet
longer than the arm, and are often allowed to hang down empty when the
garment is worn out of doors; but when in the actual presence of guests
or a grandee, they are used to keep the hands hidden (a token of respect
to those present), and the many wrinkles formed by the excessive length
of these sleeves are supposed to be their beauty.
The abba, or camel-hair cloak of the Arab, is often worn by travellers,
priests, and horsemen. The priests particularly affect it; it is a very
picturesque garment, warm, and waterproof, also very light. Some of these
abbas are very expensive, though plain; while others, much embroidered in
gold, are given as dresses of honour to the middle classes and priests,
and are used at weddings, etc.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account