Ireland -- Description and travel; Ireland -- Social conditions
You land then at Kingstown, early in the morning after a four hours’
crossing, having started the evening before by the express from Euston
Station. And immediately you feel that you are no longer in England. The
language is the same, no doubt, though talked with a peculiar accent or
_brogue_. The custom-house officers are English; so are the policemen
and redcoats who air themselves on the quay; but the general type is no
longer English, and the manners are still less so. Loud talk, violent
gesticulation, jokes and laughter everywhere; brown hair, sparkling dark
eyes: you could imagine you are at Bordeaux or at Nantes.
The guard who asks for your ticket, the very train you get in, have
something peculiar, undefinable, thoroughly un-English. The old lame
newspaper-man who hands you _The Irish Times_ or the _Freeman’s Journal_
at the carriage-door, indulges witticisms while giving you back your
change, which not one of Mr. Smith’s well-conducted lads ever permits
himself along a British line. As for the passengers they are more
un-English than anything else. This lady with the olive complexion and
brown hair, may be termed an English subject; but for all that she
has not probably one globule of Anglo-Saxon blood in her veins. That
gentleman in the grey suit has evidently an English tailor, but the
flesh-and-bone lining of his coat is of an altogether different make. As
for the little man in black who is curling himself cosily in the corner
opposite to you, not only is he unmistakeably a Roman Catholic priest,
but you must positively hear him talk, to give up the idea that he is a
Breton just out of the Saint Brieux Seminary. High cheek-bones, bilious
complexion, small tobacco-coloured eyes, lank hair, nothing is missing
from the likeness.
Here is Dublin. The train takes us to the very heart of the town, and
there stops between a pretty public garden and the banks of the Liffey.
The weather is cool and clear. Inside the station cabs and cars are
waiting for travellers and their luggage. _Waiting_, not contending
eagerly for their patronage as they do in London, where any possible
customer is quickly surrounded by half-a-dozen rival drivers. “_Hansom,
sir?... Hansom, sir?_” The Dublin cabman is more indolent. He keeps
dozing on his seat or leisurely gossiping with his mates. “Why trouble
oneself for nothing? The traveller knows how to call for a cab, I
suppose!” So speaks the whole attitude of these philosophers in the
Billycock hats.
This, however, will not prevent their being as unscrupulous as any of
their fellow-drivers in any part of the globe, when it comes to settling
the fare. “How much?” “Five bob.” On verification you find that two
shillings is all the rogue is entitled to. You give the two shillings, he
pockets them and rattles away laughing. The job was a failure; no more.
* * * * *
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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