Ireland -- Description and travel; Ireland -- Social conditions
Dublin is a big city, thickly populated, crossed by wide thoroughfares,
provided with fine public gardens and splendid parks, which are here
called _greens_, and adorned with an extraordinary number of statues.
Its traffic and industry are important: visibly, this is a capital. More
than a capital; the focus of a nationality. Everything in the streets
proclaims it: sign-boards, monuments, countenances, manners. Those marble
statues you see at every step are the effigies of the patriots who
fought for the rights of Ireland. That palace with the noble colonnade,
in the heart and finest part of the town, is the very building where
the Irish Parliament, abolished in 1800 by the Act of Union, held its
assemblies. Now-a-days the Bank directors meet in the room where once met
the representatives of the nation. But they seem to have been careful
not to change anything in the general arrangement, in case it was wanted
to-morrow for some _Assemblée Constituante_. You may enter it: the
door is open for every one. On the right you see what was the House of
Lords, a rectangular hall with an open ceiling, historic hangings, and
the statue of some royalties. On the left, the House of Commons. Here,
mahogany counters stand in place of the members benches, and where
sounded once the clash of argument, you hear now the tinkling of gold
coins.
Let old times come again; let Westminster give back to the Sister-Isle
the autonomy she mourns, and, as a stage machinery, the Bank will vanish
before the Parliament. It will be an affair of a night’s work for the
upholsterers.
In front of that building, which is the City Hall, it is not the British
flag (though perhaps the law should insist upon it) that is hanging
aloft. It is the green flag of Erin with the harp and the three towers.
Everywhere there are calls on the national feeling. _Hibernian House_,
_Hibernian Hotel_, _Erin Stores_, _Irish poplins_, _Irish gloves_,
_Irish whisky_. Above all Irish whisky! one could not get comfortably
drunk with Scotch whisky, that is evident.
If you visit a museum or picture-gallery you will find Art exiled in the
background, and patriotism shining to the fore. Bating a fine Giorgione,
a valuable Potter, a Van Steen of large size and extraordinary quality,
a rare Cornelius Béga and a few others, the collection is not worth
much, and would not fetch its million francs at the _Hotel des Ventes_,
in the Rue Drouot. It is only a pretext for a national collection of
portraits where are represented all the glories of Ireland, from Jonathan
Swift, Laurence Sterne, Steele, Sheridan, Edmund Burke to Moore, Lord
Edward Fitzgerald, the Duke of Wellington, and above all, O’Connell,
“the liberator;” and Henry Grattan, esquire, “true representative of the
people, father of liberty, author of the emancipation.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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