Italian Letters of a Diplomat's Wife: January-May, 1880; February-April, 1904Waddington, Mary King
General
Italian Letters of a Diplomat's Wife: January-May, 1880; February-April, 1904
Waddington, Mary King
Rome (Italy) -- Social life and customs
We had quite a wait at Turin. Our coupé was detached and put on the
Florence express. They locked the doors, and we left all our
things--books, shawls, bags, etc.--and had a very fair dinner at the
buffet. We had so much time that Madame Hubert and I went for a little
walk. There was not much to see close to the gare--but it was delightful
to me to hear Italian again, and to see the idle, placid crowd standing
about--nobody in a hurry apparently, and nobody jostling and pushing
through, though there were trains starting or coming in all the time. W.
was too cold to move--he really should have had a fur coat--which he
utterly despises--says that will do when he is 70, and can't walk any
more. It was warm and fairly light in the buffet so he established
himself there with a paper and was quite happy. We got here about
6.30--Charles de Bunsen was at the station with a carriage--so we came
off at once, leaving Madame Hubert and Francesco with the trunks. How
she will get on in Italian I don't know, but she is very active and
débrouillarde, and generally makes herself understood. Mary[10] was
waiting for us with tea and those crisp little grissini[11] we always
used to have in Casa Guadagni. They have a charming "villino"--part of
the McDonnell villa. One goes in by a small door (in one of the narrow
grey streets of old Florence, with high walls on each side--Via Romana)
and straight up a fine broad staircase to a good palier with large high
rooms opening out on it. All the bed-rooms and small salon open on a
loggia overlooking the garden--a real old Italian garden. I shall never
be dressed in time for anything in the morning, as I am always on the
loggia. The flowers are all coming out--the birds singing--the sky
bright, deep blue--and the whole atmosphere so soft and clear--and in
fact Italian--different from everything else.
[10] Madame de Bunsen, née Waddington.
[11] Long crisp breads one has in Italy.
Mary has arranged the small salon (which they always sit in) most
prettily and comfortably--with bibelots and quantities of books about in
all languages--there are usually four going in the establishment--Charles
and his daughter speak always German to each other--the rest of us either
French or English--it depends rather upon what we are talking about--and
always an undercurrent of Italian with the servants and "parlatrice"
(such a sweet, refined looking girl who comes every day to read and
speak Italian with my belle-mère). Mrs. Waddington strikes at the mixture
at meals and insists upon one language, either English or French. There
is also a charming German girl here, Mlle. de Sternberg, a niece of
Charles de Bunsen--so we are a most cosmopolitan household. The life
is utterly different from the one I have been leading for the last two
years.
_To H. L. K._
February 10, 1880.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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