Italian Letters of a Diplomat's Wife: January-May, 1880; February-April, 1904Waddington, Mary King
General
Italian Letters of a Diplomat's Wife: January-May, 1880; February-April, 1904
Waddington, Mary King
Rome (Italy) -- Social life and customs
We arrived quite comfortably, dear mother, but almost frozen,
particularly W. He has not been extracted from the fire since we got
here. Henrietta will have told you of our start. Pontécoulant and one or
two men were at the station to see us off--also the Chef de Gare, most
civil, and saying we should not be disturbed at the frontier--and
that our coupé-lit would take us straight through to Florence. We had a
perfectly easy journey, and I slept quite peacefully--waking up merely
when we passed through the tunnel, as the guard came in to shut all the
windows. It was a beautiful, cold, starlight winter night. The great
mountains covered with snow looked gigantic as we approached--"sinistres"
as Madame Hubert[9] said. She was much impressed and rather nervous. There
were very few people in the train. When we arrived at Modane the Chef de
Gare was waiting for us--he had been telegraphed from Paris to expect us.
We had breakfast in the private room, and a nice woman was waiting for us
upstairs in the ladies' room with hot water, towels, etc. I made quite a
toilet--she carried off my dress and jacket to brush--and then we went
down to a nice little breakfast which tasted very good, as I hadn't
had anything since our 7 o'clock dinner. They offered us coffee
somewhere--Dijon I think--but I didn't want anything then. All the first
part of the road--in fact all the road to Turin was lovely. It was a
bright, cold morning, and the snow mountains looked beautiful. It was
such a pleasure to hear Italian once more--even the names at the stations
"capo stazione"--"grande velocità"--"uscita," etc., also the shrill
"partenza" when we started. The last time I crossed the Mont Cenis was
by the Fell railway when we all started together from Aix. That was
certainly very beautiful--but rather terrifying--particularly as we neared
the top and looked at the steep places and the various zigzags we were
to follow going down. One couldn't help feeling that if a brake or chain
broke there would be a terrible catastrophe. I remember so well some of
the women who were quite sea-sick--the swaying motion, I suppose, as we
rounded the curves, of which there were many. I can see one now stretched
out on the floor on a rug in the small salle d'attente at Susa, quite
exhausted and absolutely indifferent to the outside world.
[8] Mrs. Charles King, mother of Madame Waddington.
[9] Madame Waddington's maid.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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