Italian Letters of a Diplomat's Wife: January-May, 1880; February-April, 1904Waddington, Mary King
General
Italian Letters of a Diplomat's Wife: January-May, 1880; February-April, 1904
Waddington, Mary King
Rome (Italy) -- Social life and customs
Some of the men
had their breakfast out there. After breakfast we all wandered about the
garden--such thick shade that it was quite comfortable. It was pretty to
see the white figures flitting in and out among the trees. About 3 I got
into a riding skirt and loose jacket, and went for a ride with Alberti
and a Frenchman, Brinquant, a friend of Alberti--very gay, and entrain,
and perfectly amused at the entertainment--so sans façon and original.
We had a lovely ride--through such narrow roads--branches of the orange
trees and roses nearly coming into our faces as we cantered along the
little steep paths. I had a pretty little mare--perfectly sure-footed,
which was an absolute necessity as the hill paths were very steep, with
many curves, and full of rolling stones. We pottered about for an hour,
and when we got home I thought I would retire to one of the rooms and
rest for half an hour before I got back into my afternoon dress, but
that was a delusion. They all came clamouring at the door, and insisted
upon my coming out at once, as the whole party were to be photographed.
As I was perfectly confident that they would all come in if I didn't
come out, there was nothing to be done, and I joined the group. It was
rather a long affair, but at the end seemed satisfactory. Then we had
tea on the terrace, and sat there watching the sun go down behind the
Signa hills, leaving that beautiful afterglow which one only sees in
Italy--the green tints particularly.
Three or four men came out for dinner who hadn't been able to get off
early (diplomates, I fancy, for they were certainly the only men in this
gay city who had any occupation), also a tapeur[14] and little objets for
the cotillon. We did have about an hour before dinner to rest and make
ourselves look as nice as we could--but naturally a long, hot day
wandering about in a garden, and sitting on half-ruined crumbling stone
walls doesn't improve muslin dresses. The dinner was very gay and good,
and the hour on the terrace afterward with coffee, enchanting. One or
two of the men had brought guitars, and there were scraps of songs,
choruses, "stornelli," going on all the time. One man, with a lovely
tenor voice, sat on the lower step singing anything--everything--the
rest of us joining in when we knew the song. The terrace was quite
dark--the house brilliantly lighted standing out well; and every now and
then the Italian servants would appear at the door with their smiling
faces--black eyes and white teeth--evidently restraining themselves with
difficulty from joining in the choruses. I really don't think Mary's
"Bacco" could have resisted. I always hear him and Francesco singing
merrily over their work in the morning. They certainly are an
easy-going, light-hearted race, these modern Florentines. One can hardly
believe that they are the descendants of the fierce old Medici who sit
up so proud and cold on their marble tombs at San Lorenzo.
[14] Man to play on the piano.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account