Italian Letters of a Diplomat's Wife: January-May, 1880; February-April, 1904Waddington, Mary King
General
Italian Letters of a Diplomat's Wife: January-May, 1880; February-April, 1904
Waddington, Mary King
Rome (Italy) -- Social life and customs
We began the cotillon about 10, and it lasted an hour and a half. There
were 10 couples, plenty of flowers and ribbons, and, needless to say, an
extraordinary "entrain." We ended, of course, with the "Quadrille
infernal" (which Alberti always leads with the greatest spirit), made a
long chain all through the house down the terrace steps (such a
scramble) and finally dispersed in the garden. I shouldn't like to say
what the light dresses looked like after that. We started back to
Florence about midnight in two coaches--such a beautiful drive. The
coming out of the gates, and down the steep hill with a bad road and a
narrow turn was rather nervous work--but we finally emerged on the broad
high-road looking like a long silver ribbon in the moonlight winding
down the valley. We had the road quite to ourselves--it was too late for
revellers, and too early for market people, so we could go a good pace,
and galloped up and down the hills, some of them decidedly steep. It was
a splendid night--that warm southern moon (so unlike our cold white
moonlight) throwing out every line sharply. It was just 3 o'clock when
we drew up at Casa Guadagni.
I didn't intend to write so much about Signa, but I had just been
telling it all to W., and I think it will amuse the family in America.
_To H. L. K._
VILLA MCDONNELL,
February 15, 1880.
I try and write every day, but it is not easy. We are out all the time.
The weather is divine, and it seems wicked to stay indoors. W. and I go
out every morning, and we do a good deal of sight-seeing in a pleasant,
idle way. I go sometimes to the Boboli Gardens and wait for him there
when he has letters to write. It is all so unlike our Florence of ten
years ago; I love the quiet grey streets. The gardens are delicious;
dark and cool; you see no one, hear nothing but the splash of the
fountains, and the modern busy world doesn't exist. I am becoming quite
intimate with the custode--he is most friendly--smiles all over when W.
appears--and remarked the other day casually when he was late and I was
waiting at the gate, "Il marito si fa aspettare." This morning we
pottered about the Ponte Vecchio, where all the shops look exactly the
same, and apparently the same old wrinkled men bending over their pearls
and turquoises. So many foreigners have bought pearls that the prices
have all gone up. There has been a great influx of strangers these last
days as Easter is early, and we hear English on all sides. Two pretty
fair-haired English girls were loitering about the bridge and shops,
attracting much attention and admiration, quite freely expressed, from
some of the numerous young men who are always lounging about; but the
admiration is so genuine and so open that no one could be angry or
consider it an impertinence.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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