Italian Letters of a Diplomat's Wife: January-May, 1880; February-April, 1904 — John Shaqi
Italian Letters of a Diplomat's Wife: January-May, 1880; February-April, 1904Waddington, Mary King
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Italian Letters of a Diplomat's Wife: January-May, 1880; February-April, 1904
Waddington, Mary King
Rome (Italy) -- Social life and customs
I was busy all the morning unpacking and settling myself, and of course
looking out of the window. It is all so delightfully familiar--all the
botte standing in the middle of the street, and the coachman trying so
hard to understand when some English or American tourists give them some
impossible address in Italian--you know the kind of people I mean,
conscientious tourists who think they must always speak the language of
the country they are in, learned out of a phrase-book. We have various
invitations, from our two Embassies, Quirinal and Vatican, also the
Teanos, and W. had a nice visit from Lanciani, who wants to show him all
Rome. We took a botta to go to the Schuylers. It isn't far, but I wasn't
quite sure of finding my way the first time. They have a charming
apartment in Palazzo Altemps, near the Piazza Navona, not at all far
really from our hotel, and now that I know the way I can often walk over
in the mornings when W. is off sight-seeing seriously with some of his
learned friends. It is a fine old palace with a large open court and
broad stone staircase. San Carlo Borromeo is supposed to have lived
there. Their apartment belongs to Mrs. Terry, wife of the artist, who
had arranged it very comfortably, and the Schuylers have put in all
their Turkish rugs, carpets, and bibelots, so it really looks very
pretty. There are quantities of green plants and flowers about (they are
both fond of flowers and are always making experiments and trying
something new) and of course books, papers, reviews, and a piano.
I told Gert I thought I would write to Vera and have some singing
lessons--I have done so little singing since I have been married. Eugene
is a charming host, and he and W. had plenty to talk about. I inspected
Gert's wardrobe while they were smoking. Her dresses are all right, and
I think her maid is good. I wrote all this after I came in. The man of
the hotel had engaged a carriage for us--a nice little victoria with a
pair of greys. It comes from Tomba's stables--do you remember the name?
The same loueur we had when we lived here. The coachman said he
remembered me perfectly, had often driven the "signorine" to the meets,
and hoped la maman was well. We were lucky to get such a nice little
carriage. The d'Aubignys, a French couple, had just given it up, as they
were leaving the Embassy here for Berlin.
We drove about a little--left cards for the Noailles, Desprez, Cairolis,
and wound up in the Villa Borghese, which was again quite changed--such
quantities of carriages and people walking, also Italian officers
riding, and soldiers, bersaglieri, etc., about. We crossed the
Wimpffens, looking very smiling, and saw in the distance, as we were
coming out, the royal red liveries, but the carriage was too far off to
see who was in it. Now we are going to dinner, and I shall be glad to
get to bed early. I think I am more tired than yesterday.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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