Italian Letters of a Diplomat's Wife: January-May, 1880; February-April, 1904Waddington, Mary King
General
Italian Letters of a Diplomat's Wife: January-May, 1880; February-April, 1904
Waddington, Mary King
Rome (Italy) -- Social life and customs
HÔTEL DE LONDRES,
February 26, 1880.
I will begin again this afternoon, as I have a little time before
dinner. The weather is divine, quite the same deep-blue sky and bright
sun of our first Roman winter. We have had an enchanting drive out of
Porta San Sebastiano and along the Via Appia as far as Cecilia
Metella--everything exactly the same as when we were there so many years
ago. The same peasant carts blocking up the narrow gateway, everybody
talking at once, white teeth gleaming, and quantities of little brown
children with black eyes and jet black hair tumbling down over their
eyes and outstretched hands for anything the forestieri would put into
them. W. was a little disappointed at first. The road is narrow, an
atrocious pavement, and high walls almost shutting out the view.
However, as we got farther out there came gaps in the walls through
which one saw the whole stretch of the Campagna with the Claudian
Aqueduct on one side, and when we finally emerged into the open fields,
he was delighted. How extraordinary all these old tombs and pyramids
are, most of them falling in ruins, with roses and creepers of all kinds
holding them together. On one of the largest round tombs there was a
peasant house with a garden and vines, and smoke coming out of the
chimney, perched quite on the top, with a steep, stony path winding
down, where the coachman told me the donkey went up and down, as he too
lived in the house with the family. Some of the tombs are very
high--real towers. There is hardly a trace of marble or inscription
left, but the original building so strong that the walls remain.
The queer old tombs, towers, and bits of ruins all along the road
interested W. immensely; though he has never been here he knows them all
from photographs and reproductions, and could tell me a great deal more
than I could tell him. We went as far as the round tomb of Cecilia
Metella, and then got out and walked a little. I wanted to show him the
low wall which we used to jump always when the meet was at Cecilia
Metella. Do you remember the first time you came out to see us jump, not
at a hunt but one afternoon with Dyer practising to see what the horses
and riders would do? You saw us start at a canter for the wall, and then
shut your eyes tight until we called out to you from the other side.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account