Itinerary of Provence and the Rhone: Made During the Year 1819Hughes, John
History
Itinerary of Provence and the Rhone: Made During the Year 1819
Hughes, John
Provence (France) -- Description and travel; Rhône River (Switzerland and France)
conveyance; for the habit of lying is so constant and inveterate in this
class of fellows, as to possess all the advantages of truth; inasmuch as
you have only to believe the direct contrary of what they say. The only
inconvenient and perplexing liars are those who sometimes speak truth by
accident; and their fictions moreover are seldom extravagant enough to
afford the amusement created by romancers of the former class; among
whom I may reckon a beggar, who beset us on the quay of Chalons,
maintaining in a strong French accent, that he was the son of a carman
of Thames-street, in the parish of St. George Hanovre, and had only been
a few months in France.
The _elite_ of our company consisted of a tall well-looking officer,
wearing the croix d'honneur; a shrewd old Provencal merchant, to whom we
were indebted for much valuable travelling information; two young
friends, one of whom sang very agreeably and unaffectedly, and the
other, a lively French Falstaff ate and talked enough for both; and
last, not least, an old gentleman of the name of C. travelling to his
campagne in Languedoc, whose arch quiet manners answered very much to my
idea of the imaginary Hermite en Province. At Tournus, we took in a host
of additional passengers, not so polished, but unobtrusive and
well-behaved. I question however, whether, in the event of a rainy day,
we should have found this mode of travelling very desirable; as the
common cabin is but small in proportion to the number of persons capable
of being accommodated on deck. There is indeed a smaller cabin
adjoining, which, though the exclusive right of the diligence passengers
from Paris, is usually shared by them with the rest. It is distinguished
by the words over the door, "Chambre de Pairs," which some wag had
altered into "Chambre des Paris," or the Upper House, inscribing the
other cabin with his pencil as the Chambre des Deputes.
Many a person fond of indulging in classical reveries, and not aware of
the real breadth of the Clitumnus, may have formed a very spacious idea
of that celebrated stream, and longed to contemplate its wide reaches
from the foot of its well-known temple. As however the Clitumnus is in
this identical spot, not broader than what a Yorkshire farmer would call
"a bonny beck," and a Yorkshire fox-hunter would ride at without
hesitation, the imaginary picture of it may with real propriety be
transferred to the Saone near Tournus, winding as it does through the
extensive meadows of a rich champaign country, and reflecting in its
broad blue mirror the herds of fine white cattle which we saw paddling
in every creek. It bears a strong resemblance to many parts of the Po,
excepting in the stillness of its current, which was so great, that it
would have been easy while leaning over the bow of the vessel, to fancy
the Saone into the blue sky, and the coche d'eau, into Southey's vessel
of the Suras, or Wordsworth's aerial skiff.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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