Itinerary of Provence and the Rhone: Made During the Year 1819Hughes, John
History
Itinerary of Provence and the Rhone: Made During the Year 1819
Hughes, John
Provence (France) -- Description and travel; Rhône River (Switzerland and France)
At seven in the evening we came within view of the stately towers of
Macon, a town, to all appearance, fully equal to Chalons in size and
opulence, and much exceeding it as a subject for the pencil. Its fine
navigation, the general richness of the country, and the productive
vineyards on the neighbouring hills, all unite to render it a central
point of business and bustle. There are several inns on the quay, of a
good appearance; but we found the Hotel de l'Europe, to which we had
been directed, in every respect deserving of its high reputation, and
inferior, perhaps, to no country inn on the continent. After
reconnoitring Mont Blanc again from the windows of the clean and airy
bed-rooms to which we had been shown, we dined at the table d'hote,
which was served within a quarter of an hour after the arrival of the
coche. Among the more polished company present, I was not a little
diverted by some scattered specimens of the French gentleman-farmer,
present for the express purpose of wallowing for once in a dinner drest
by the Duc d'Angouleme's ci-devant cook; fat and well-clad; their
countenances wearing a sort of awkward purse-proud defiance to the cool
sarcastic look with which the Parisian travellers eyed them; and their
conscious shame struggling with the desire to appropriate all the good
things before them. Numps, in the well-known old tale, was but a type
of these honest personages, who seemed to be considered as "de trop" by
the majority. In spite of the mixtures (I do not mean those made in the
stomach) which must necessarily take place on these occasions, and
allowing for the English prejudice in favour of privacy, there are
advantages in dining at all French table d'hotes, frequented by
tolerable company. To the epicure it ensures better fare and attendance
than he can command by any other means, as the landlord and his
attendants feel both their credit and interest concerned in displaying
the most alacrity, and producing the greatest variety of dishes before a
large party; while chance customers, after waiting for a long hungry
interval, may have to encounter tired waiters, and partake of the
tossed-up leavings of this very table d'hote;
Which, certainly, these gentlemen must own,
Is much more dignified than entertaining,
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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