Itinerary of Provence and the Rhone: Made During the Year 1819 — John Shaqi
Itinerary of Provence and the Rhone: Made During the Year 1819Hughes, John
History
Itinerary of Provence and the Rhone: Made During the Year 1819
Hughes, John
Provence (France) -- Description and travel; Rhône River (Switzerland and France)
subjects of greater science and physical powers among their own
countrymen. On our return to the coche d'eau, our fat companion lighted
his cigar, and hastened to lie down in the cabin, observing, "Il faut
que je me repose un peu, pour faire ma digestion;" and Monsieur C.,
instead of leaving him quietly in his state of torpidity, like a boa
refreshed with raw buffalo, began to argue with us on the superior
nicety of the French in eating. "Nous aimons les mets plus delicats que
vous autres," quoth he; at which we laughed, and pointed to the cabin.
We found, upon explanation, however, that Mr. C., though well-informed
in general upon the subject of English customs, entertained an idea not
uncommon in France, viz. that we always despatch the whole of those
hospitable haunches and sirloins, which appear at an English table, at
one and the same sitting: with this notion, his observation was
certainly natural enough.
From Trevoux, the Saone winds between narrow, steep, and picturesque
banks as far as Lyons, near which place they close in upon its channel,
exhibiting more varieties of rock and wood than before. For the good
taste displayed by the rich Lyonnais in their villas and gardens, which
began to peep upon us at every step, I cannot in truth say much; but
our French companions, who had overlooked the merely natural beauties of
the country, found much to commend in these little vagaries of art. A
lively bourgeoise, on whom we stumbled the next day behind the counter
of a glove-shop, ran up, openmouthed, to explain to us the beauties of
one of their show spots, in view of which a sudden turn of the river was
just bringing us. A conspicuous inscription on a large vulgar-looking
house painted red and yellow, informed us that it was styled the
"Hermitage du Mont d'Or." In the space of not quite an acre of ground,
on the side of a wooded hill of the highest natural loveliness, the
proprietor had contrived to commit a host of the most outrageous and
fantastical absurdities, which were hailed with a smile from Mons. C.,
and a burst of approbation from the rest of the party. At the top of the
hill were four scattered pillars of different diminutive forms, with
gilt balustrades; all painted with gaudy colours, and none large enough
for a moderate tea-garden, or sufficiently solid to have resisted the
point-blank stagger of a drunken man. Lower down were two holes in the
rock, which, from their size and appearance, I should have taken for a
rabbit-burrow and a badger's earth, but for the young lady's joyous
exclamation--"Ah! voila les hermitages. Messieurs, il y a deux hermites
la-dedans." "A la bonne heure, Mademoiselle; ils sont vivans, sans
doute"--. "Mais pour cela--pas absolument--c'est que--ils sont de cire,
voyez vous, mais d'une beaute! ah, c'est une chose a voir!" Then came
an inclosure so thickly studded with pillars of different sizes, as to
resemble a Mahometan burying ground. "Vous y trouverez des inscriptions
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