Itinerary of Provence and the Rhone: Made During the Year 1819Hughes, John
History
Itinerary of Provence and the Rhone: Made During the Year 1819
Hughes, John
Provence (France) -- Description and travel; Rhône River (Switzerland and France)
de toute espece, et la vous voyez la colonne de Trajan." This was a
wooden obelisk about ten feet high, painted white, at the base of which
ROME was written in large black letters, occupying the whole of one
side. Immediately above the house stood a small wooden building, with a
red and white dome, and pillars and windows painted on the sides. The
name COSMORAMA, which took up half the height of the side fronting us,
still left us in doubt as to its use or intention; and our fair cicerone
could no more explain the nature of her favourite building, than
Bardolph could the meaning of the word "accommodate." "Eh, Monsieur,
c'est ce qu'on appelle Cosmorama; je ne saurois vous dire precisement;
peut-etre il y a des betes sauvages;--ou--quelque chose de gentil, voyez
vous--mais enfin c'est un Cosmorama." "Mais voila ce qui est vraiment
joli," resounded on all sides; and so general and good-humoured was
their admiration of this rickety bauble, that we did our best to
acquiesce in it. After all, we could admire, without any breach of
sincerity, the natural beauties of this spot, which very much resembles
the more open parts of the glen where Matlock is situated, and which all
these abominations could not entirely deface. How to account for this
perversion of eye in a people of sensibility and taste, I am rather at a
loss; but this last is by no means a singular instance. "Bientot vous
allez sortir de ces tristes bois," compassionately observed a very
gentleman-like officer, with whom we had fallen in during a stage of
beautiful forest scenery; and not a soul in a voiture which breakfasted
in the salle a manger at Rochepot, could understand why we stopped to
admire the distant prospect of the Alps. Not to multiply instances of
the indifference to the beauties of simple nature, which will, I think,
be allowed to exist in the French, as contrasted with ourselves, I am
inclined to extend the line of distinction still farther, and to affirm,
that this deficiency in taste appears generally to distinguish the
Teutonic from the Southern blood. It is no exaggeration to say, that for
one French or Italian traveller in Switzerland, twenty English, or ten
Germans, may be reckoned. The French taste in landscape gardening is
well known, and that of the Italians[4] is but a shade or two better:
witness the detestable baby-house with which they have defaced one of
the finest scenes in the world, and which they distinguish, _par
excellence_, as the Isola Bella; to say nothing of a host of similar
instances, as contrasted with our own Longleat and Rydal Park.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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