Itinerary of Provence and the Rhone: Made During the Year 1819Hughes, John
History
Itinerary of Provence and the Rhone: Made During the Year 1819
Hughes, John
Provence (France) -- Description and travel; Rhône River (Switzerland and France)
Within less than half an hour's walk of the Brotteaux, and on the same
side of the river, stands the Chateau la Motte, in which Henry IV.
received Mary de Medicis as his bride. The way thither is best found by
following the street leading to the Turin road for about a mile, when a
turn to the right, not far from the junction of the road to Vienne,
brings you in the course of a few minutes to the castle. When seen at a
distance either from the Croix Rousse or Fourvieres, its four turrets
and a watch-tower give it an air of grandeur consistent with its former
history, and distinguish it from the adjoining suburb. In a nearer point
of view, indeed, its patched and dilapidated appearance shows the vain
attempts which have been made to repair the ravages of the Revolution.
At that period it belonged, as we were informed, to M. de Verres, a
brave royalist gentleman, whose activity against the Revolutionists
drew their marked vengeance upon himself and his possessions. At the
time of the siege of Lyons, he garrisoned the Chateau la Motte with a
strong detachment of chasseurs; and, as a peasant informed us, "fought
like a devil incarnate," obstructing the operations of the sans-culotte
army materially, and retarding their success against Lyons by his
obstinate resistance. The position of his extensive premises, detached
from the rest of the suburb, and surrounded with a wall, added to the
advantage of a gently rising ground, must have enabled him to prolong
the contest with effect. His fate was like that of so many other loyal
and intrepid Lyonnese: being forced at last to surrender, he underwent,
as may be supposed, a very summary trial, and was shot on the Brotteaux,
in sight of the distant turrets of his own house. The property was
confiscated, and great part of the chateau pulled down; but fortunately
the round tower, containing Henry the Fourth's bed-room, still remains,
rather owing in all probability to the ignorance of the Jacobins, than
their good will. A part of the estate has been restored to his daughter,
Mad. d'A., together with the chateau, which she inhabits; but I have
reason to fear this part is but an inconsiderable one. Observing us
wandering round the chateau with an air of curiosity, she politely sent
to invite us to walk in. The room in which she was sitting opened upon a
terrace, commanding a fine view down the Rhone towards Mont Pilate; and
its interior was decorated with a few specimens of magnificent old
furniture, which contrasted strongly with the air of desolation visible
throughout. Two fauteuils of rich crimson velvet, with massy gilt
frames, and two commodes inlaid and ornamented with brass, seem all the
remains of the splendour of this once royal residence. From hence we
visited Henry's apartment, which occupies the middle story of a large
turret. It commands a fine view of Lyons and its noble environs; and the
ceiling and walls bore some remains of the golden fleurs-de-lys on a
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