Itinerary of Provence and the Rhone: Made During the Year 1819Hughes, John
History
Itinerary of Provence and the Rhone: Made During the Year 1819
Hughes, John
Provence (France) -- Description and travel; Rhône River (Switzerland and France)
blue ground, which had once ornamented them. Nearly the whole, however,
had been white-washed during the Revolution; and on the advance of the
Austrians, in 1814, the whole building suffered more by the hands of the
combatants, than during the former sanguinary times. "Cependant il est
bien connu," as Mad. d'A. answered with a proud smile, when we expressed
our surprise at having found a well dressed person who could not direct
us to Chateau la Motte. It may claim, indeed, to be well known to every
good Frenchman, both from its former and latter history. It is singular,
that in the course of the same day we should receive attentions from two
persons, both of whom had lost their dearest friends in the carnage
which followed the siege of Lyons. While I was sketching Mont Blanc and
the course of the Rhone from the environs of Chateau Montsuy, a tall
genteel old man, looking very like a Castilian, accosted us civilly,
and, having peeped over my shoulder for a moment or two, invited us into
his garden, which commanded the same view in a much superior manner. His
sister-in-law, who was walking with him, had, he informed us, lost her
husband and son in the fusillade. Yet, perhaps, when we consider the
extent of the havoc, it would seem more singular to find a family who
had not suffered, nearly or remotely, from its consequences.
In returning over the Pont la Guillotiere, we were led to remark the
probable antiquity of its construction. The centre still retains the
drawbridge; and the whole fabric appears to have been widened, when
wheel carriages came into fashion, with a supplementary parallel slice,
riveted on to it by iron bolts. This expedient rather reminded me of a
story which I had heard in my infancy, of a prudent housewife, who first
roasted half a turkey for the family dinner, and when it had been twenty
minutes on the spit, sewed on the remaining half to welcome an
unexpected guest.
Our excursion on the Saone had in every respect answered so well, that
we were tempted to make inquiry whether the Rhone was also practicable
as far as Avignon. Learning, however, that this mode of conveyance was
seldom resorted to, and not liking the appearance of the passage-boats
which we saw, we concluded, and found afterwards, that there were
sufficient objections against it, excepting to those who wish to save
time and expense. The rapidity of the current, and the violence and
uncertainty of the winds which prevail upon the Rhone, render it
necessary to employ a very skilful boatman; and, in a picturesque point
of view, as much is lost by the intervention of the high banks of the
Rhone, which shut out the distant parts of the landscape, as is gained
by the perpetual accompaniment of water as a foreground. On the whole,
we found reason to prefer the land route by Vienne and Valence, for
which our arrangements were made accordingly.
I think it is an observation of Cowper, that
"God made the country, and man made the town;"
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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