Jacobean Embroidery: Its Forms and Fillings, Including Late TudorFitzwilliam, Ada Wentworth
History
Jacobean Embroidery: Its Forms and Fillings, Including Late Tudor
Fitzwilliam, Ada Wentworth
Embroidery
In the earliest examples the hillocks were much broken up, and smaller
(more like the mounds in the painted Palampores) than in the later work,
from which we may presume the spread of the Oriental influence had done
its work, the "terra firma" being carried out with a similitude to the
eastern version of waves that includes the actual stitchery; grafted on
to this was the legend of the pursuit of the human soul (typified by a
hart) by evil, personified by the huntsman, the hounds and various
uncanny beasts, two bearing unflattering resemblance to the heraldic
lion and leopard; while rabbits, snails, grubs of all kind hinder the
hart's progress, these are relics of the days when The Bestiarta
(symbolism of beasts) was carefully studied.
The riotous re-action from the Puritan rule was reflected in the
embroideries of the restoration, as in everything else, and patterns
became exuberant, colouring more brilliant, the exquisite stitchery
gradually gave place to the easier achievement of solid fillings, and
the requisite relief was secured by light sprays filling up the ground
between the larger leaves, jasmine, cherries, harebells, potato
flowers, honeysuckle, shamrock or trefoil and acorns took the lead.
It is an almost impossible task to describe the large leaves, since they
bear no resemblance to anything natural, they are, however, rarely
angular in outline, rejoicing rather in sweeping curves, and drooping
points, curled over to display the under side of the leaf, a device that
gave opening for much ingenuity in the arrangement of the stitches. The
variety in these was so great that on reading the enumeration made by
Taylor, the Water Poet, one becomes quite breathless. The predominating
ones, however, are--_Outline or Stem Stitch_, used for all but the
largest stems, and veining and outlining leaves and flowers.
_Shading Stitch_, sometimes called long and short, used for large
branches and leaves, _Basket_ and _Double Back Stitch_ are also used for
these stems.
_Satin Stitch_, for all kinds of flowers and small foliage, or for the
definite flat shading, that is like block shading without the ridge
caused by the carrying back of the wool into the past row of stitches.
_Buttonhole_, also much used for leaves, especially those having light
fillings and broad outlines.
_Rope Stitch_, _Coral_, _Cable_ and _Chain_, also for outlines, the last
named being also used for fillings.
The fancy fillings such as darning, French knots, etc., are demonstrated
and described in the following pages, and the colour plates endeavour to
give the idea of the correct colourings. In this connection, a few
observations, based on the study of genuine originals, may not be amiss.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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