Jacobean Embroidery: Its Forms and Fillings, Including Late TudorFitzwilliam, Ada Wentworth
History
Jacobean Embroidery: Its Forms and Fillings, Including Late Tudor
Fitzwilliam, Ada Wentworth
Embroidery
Carnations, harebells, canterbury bells, roses, marigolds, grapes, are
included in the composition; block shading, chain stitch, stem stitch
are all employed in the working, and a very interesting example of the
Opus Plumarian is given in the tail feathers of the tiny peacock.
The dissection of detail in early English crewel embroidery is a very
fascinating occupation and well repays the expenditure of time. So
little has been written about this particular phase of the embroiderer's
art, that it is by old records and examples one becomes best informed
and in a great measure enabled to trace the growth of the style that
culminated in the massive designs that derived their name from the epoch
in which they were in favour. Tudor crewel work, was chiefly done in
broad outline of a more or less fanciful nature as regards the
stitching, witness the sections of that Tudor piece which is shewn in
our first illustration.
Forms were large but gradually became reduced as they were worked more
solidly. The beautiful foxglove pattern in "Bess of Hardwicke's"
curtains at Hardwicke, shews a very slight feeling of transition but it
may safely be assumed that one of the influences bearing on the
execution of the crewel work, was the portentous character of much of
the contemporary canvas hand-worked tapestry such as the famous set of
panels unearthed in Hatton Gardens. The architectural basis is a link
between the Ecclesiastical and Secular embroideries of the past
centuries, and anyone interested in the evolution of design would be
struck with the similitude of the large leaves and flowers in these
panels to those of the crewel designs of the same date; it is also
noteworthy that the symbolic significance in the details of the panels
is ecclesiastic, whereas in the crewel work it is always based on the
legend of the Tree of Life, or secularly emblematic.
Colourings were often in both styles, blues, greens, bright yellows and
browns predominated, carnation reds figuring in some examples, used for
the flower of that name and for the pomegranate, which, with its seeds
visible, signifies future life and immortality.
The carnation and the caterpillar were both Stuart emblems, and occur in
nearly all kinds of work executed during their reigns; the rose, of
course, has its national as well as its religious significance, likewise
the oak (after the restoration).
The potato flower seen in both Jacobean and Portuguese embroideries is
an example of the habit of recording the latest novelty, the strawberry
was also popular on this account, and is frequently introduced in those
hillocky foregrounds, which, to me, appear one of the most interesting
evidences of combined influences.
Once again, another Oriental idea was evidently assimilated, for in
numberless Chinese patterns one sees the main motive springing out of a
base of waves formed exactly like the hillocks which became such a
distinctive feature in these large branching designs.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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