A night’s sleep seems to have restored the party, for they landed at
Antwerp the following morning apparently all in good spirits, and after
a stroll round the town took train for Cologne, passing Liège, “which
lies beautifully in a lovely wooded valley,” _en route_. After a short
visit to Cologne--“here I was pleased to find Heine’s good Christopher
in the Dom”--the party went on by boat to Königswinter. “Sail up the
Rhine not very interesting, but the evening is exquisite and the
flat country looks well.” At Königswinter they spent some days--very
hot ones--climbing the Siebengebirge and geologising, with lighter
intervals. One of the interludes may be mentioned:--“Peach swam across
the Rhine in twelve minutes (before breakfast).”
After a day or two at Königswinter the party went down the Rhine to
Bonn, to see Prof. Zirkel there and to visit the museum. Bonn is
somewhat briefly dismissed:--“This is a lost day. I hate Bonn ...
hooked it back to Königswinter--and loafed about.” At Bonn the party
met Sir Roderick Murchison, then Director-General of the Geological
Survey, profanely called “the Duke” in the diary, for his mannerisms
made a strong appeal to the sense of humour of the more lively members
of the party. The veteran geologist--or at least so the juniors
asserted--graduated his greetings in careful accordance with the
official position of each. But the old chief’s genuine interest in
geology was shown by his eager questions about the recent results of
the Survey work in the Southern Uplands.
Finally Königswinter was left, “with regret,” for the Laacher See, a
detailed visit to the Eifel country being one of the great objects
of the tour. James Geikie’s early work in the Ochils had aroused his
interest in volcanic phenomena, and his geological notes in regard to
the next section of the tour are singularly full.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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