The party took steamer to Brohl, and then drove to the lake, being,
as is carefully recorded, cheated both by the boatman who took them
off the steamer and by the driver. Perhaps the fact accounts for the
next entry:--“I have seen prettier places than the Laacher See.” The
party had an introduction, obtained presumably through Prof. Zirkel, to
one of the fathers at Laach Abbey, and he and a companion accompanied
them on a tour round the lake, in order to point out the objects of
geological interest. A trip to the Bausenberg was also made. Next day
the members of the party walked to Niedermendig to see the famous
quarries there. Here they tasted the beer stored in the caverns, and
characteristically--for James Geikie did not have to wait for Mr
Chesterton to sing the merits of beer--the diary devotes nearly equal
space to the geology and the beverage. “It was deliciously cold and I
like the flavour. I had heard much of the coldness of this beer, viz.,
that no one could drink more than a small glassful at a time. But I
found no difficulty in taking down a good pint, and if I had not had
the mine to get out of, I could easily have stowed away double the
quantum.”
Some other interesting excursions were made in the neighbourhood of
the Laacher See, in company with the friendly monks, and then finally
the party set off in a farm wagon for a thirty-mile drive to Daun, in
the heart of the Eifel country, over very rough roads. The vehicle was
cheap, but this seems to have been its only merit, and the driver, a
prosperous peasant with money in the bank, as he explained to them,
had the disadvantage of not knowing the way. The journey took over
twelve hours, and when the tired party reached the village it was to
find that it was market-day there, and rooms were difficult to obtain,
so that the weary scientists had to seek lodgings where they could,
some in an inn, where they were “nearly eaten up with fleas,” and
others in a private house. After a day here, another long drive was
taken to Bertrich, where the better hotels, an indirect result of the
local medicinal springs, revived the drooping spirits of the diarist.
Unfortunately the bill next morning proved that the presence of the
visitors had another effect also, and the tone of the diary again
becomes subdued, till, after a long drive, the Moselle was reached, and
its scenery had a restorative effect.
At Cochem the geologists engaged a boat and two men to row them forty
miles down the Moselle to Coblentz. The first twenty miles, it is
carefully explained, were delightful; but darkness came on long before
the destination was reached, and it was midnight before an unwilling
dockkeeper allowed the boat to enter Coblentz. But in spite of the
fatigue and tedium of the long journey, the diarist expresses himself
as highly delighted with the trip.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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