Coblentz did not make a favourable impression on the travellers, and
the diary contains some caustic remarks on the Prussian soldiers, with
whom the town was full, and on the Prussian officers whose manners at
table in the hotel were a trial to persons accustomed to place reliance
upon a fork rather than a knife as an implement for conveying food
into the mouth. The subject is one which recurs more than once, for
James Geikie, who was singularly susceptible to feminine charm, seemed
to resent strongly the general lack of it among the German ladies
met with, and could not reconcile himself to the sight of a Fräulein
disposing of peas by a method whose only advantage was its rapidity.
If the sound reflection that a lady who habitually uses a broad-bladed
knife for this purpose is rarely so clumsy as to slit her mouth
completely from ear to ear in the process occurred to him, it evidently
afforded no consolation, and he found it difficult to sit out a meal
in a German hotel if peas entered into the menu. He himself attempted
no missionary work, however, though he records meeting two “Yankees,”
one of whom “had induced one or two German ladies to use their forks
instead of their knives for pitching in the victuals. They were
surprised, they told him, that the fork could do the work so nicely!”
At Coblentz two of the party, Messrs Horne and Skae, turned back,
while the rest went on to Goarshausen, where they passed a delightful
couple of days. “It is one of the prettiest spots in all the Rhine
country.” The next stop was at Heidelberg, where the customary sights
were visited, and the scarred countenances of the students commented on
with true British disgust; the journey was then continued _viâ_ Basle,
Berne, Thun, and Interlaken to Grindelwald. Here the famous guide Peter
Michel was engaged, and the party spent “a most interesting day” on
the glaciers. “The ice phenomena were well seen, but best on the lower
glacier.” So successful was the excursion that it was resolved, though
all were inexperienced, to make the crossing of the Strahlegg to the
Grimsel. Bad weather made it necessary to stop two nights at the Bäregg
hut, and of these and the day’s imprisonment an amusing description
is given. On the second day the weather cleared and the chalet was
left at five, and, after a tiring day, the party reached the Grimsel
at six in the evening, some of the members being much fatigued. Some
interesting observations were made _en route_. From the Grimsel the
party made their way down the Rhone valley to Lake Geneva, and at this
point the diary ends abruptly. The excursion, it is clear, was one of
great interest, and coupled with the previous visit to Norway, must
have played an important part in helping James Geikie to visualise the
Europe of the Ice Age.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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