Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornmentOstier, Marianne
History
Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornment
Ostier, Marianne
Jewelry
Oriental tales have many accounts of magic rings. One of the most
elaborate deals with Gyges, a Lydian noble to whom King Candaules, proud
of the possession of a beautiful wife, displayed her in her undraped
beauty. The resourceful Gyges descended into a chasm of the earth, where
he found a brazen horse with a human carcass in its belly. From the
body Gyges took a ring which, when he turned the stone inward, made him
invisible. Thus fortified, Gyges entered the palace and murdered the
king. The widow, Nyssia, married him; he reigned thirty-eight years, from
716 to 678 B.C., with the help of the ring becoming so powerful and so
rich that men spoke proverbially of “the wealth of Gyges.”
Another ring, as remembered by Chaucer in _The Squire’s Tale_, gave a
man the power to understand the language of the birds. The reader may
remember that the messenger between King Solomon and the Queen of Sheba
was a bird that whispered in their ears. We gather such stories from
early days literally through a fabulous thousand and one nights.
Although jewelry was a preeminent concern of the Egyptians, because they
must be adorned not only in this world but in the next, it was a lively
preoccupation throughout the Near East, the cradle of civilization.
Babylonian and Assyrian tombs yield treasures in splendidly mounted
jewels. A description of the goddess Ishtar, descending through the Seven
Gates to the ultimate world, pictures her at each gate putting aside a
separate jewel, finger rings, toe rings, necklace, earrings, armlet,
brooch, girdle: she passes through the final gate in unadorned beauty.
Among the jewels of ancient Persia, from the fourth century B.C., is a
great necklace of three rows of pearls, almost 500 pearls in all, half of
them still well preserved across the flight of twenty-five centuries.
_Westward to the Greeks_
There exist some examples of Greek art in early times. A gold and
silver brooch in the form of a flower may have been shaped about 1400
B.C. Perhaps 500 years later, by the time of the Trojan War, there were
inlays, intaglios, even small plaques of gold with hooks to fit the ear.
In the fifth century, when the great dramatists filled the theatres,
Greek lapidaries were making filigree and enamels of fruit and flowers—a
bit later, of the fair feminine form. By this time, too, the Greeks were
copying the designs they saw on, or bought from, Egyptian and Phoenician
traders; the sphinx and the scarab appear in Hellenic workmanship.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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