Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornmentOstier, Marianne
History
Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornment
Ostier, Marianne
Jewelry
Two ornaments common in ancient Egypt are not found in use today. One
is the pectoral, a great bejeweled breastpiece, usually hung from the
neck. The other is the golden wig cover. The great men and women of the
eighteenth century B.C. wore long black wigs (in contrast to the great
men of the eighteenth century A.D.; George Washington’s inaugural wig,
was, of course, powdered white). Close-fitting over these black wigs
were joined rows of gold bands or medallions, beaten fine, fastened
together, forming a complete cover that reached to the shoulders. The
bands bore hieroglyphics, the medallions were usually shaped like
heads of man or beast. One other difference from later times: for the
snuffbox of the eighteenth century A.D., or the cigarette lighter of the
twentieth, society folk in ancient Egypt carried a perfume box.
The Egyptians had many rings, including signet rings. These were
intaglios; that is, the design was cut into, hollowed out of, the metal
or stone, so that when the ring was pressed on clay or wax it would
leave a raised design like a cameo. The design might be a god, or a
sacred animal such as a scarab or a sphinx, usually with an indication
of the identity of the owner. Thus the King’s seal, and especially the
King’s signet ring if borne by a messenger, carried the royal authority.
Jezebel, wife of Ahab, King of the Israelites, used the seal of her royal
spouse on the letters she wrote to destroy Naboth, whose vineyard they
coveted.
The Israelites, indeed, wore rings on their fingers, in their nostrils,
in their ears, and we are told that when they walked there was a tinkling
about their feet. They also wore a gem pressed into the soft side of the
nostril, a favorite spot for display through the Near East, still adorned
by a gem among the Bedouins and the Hindus of today. The Israelites gave
of these jewels in great quantity to adorn the Tabernacle that was built
in the wilderness—and also for the making of the Golden Calf.
Legend has it that Solomon’s wisdom emanated from a magic ring. One day
he carelessly left this ring behind him at the bath, and with the water
of his bath it was thrown into the sea. Solomon retained enough wisdom to
suspend his legal court for forty days, after which the ring came back to
him in the stomach of a fish served at his table. A similar story of a
jewel returned in the belly of a fish is told by Polycrates, tyrant of
Samos in 530 B.C. Like stories occur in _The Thousand and One Nights_;
and the coat of arms of the city of Glasgow contains a salmon with a ring
in its mouth, memorializing the occasion when St. Kentigern from the
fish’s mouth restored to an early queen her ring and her reputation.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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