Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornment — John Shaqi
Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornmentOstier, Marianne
History
Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornment
Ostier, Marianne
Jewelry
Lollia Paulina, wife of the Emperor Caligula, possessed a great chain of
emeralds and pearls worth over two million dollars.
It is significant of the change in Roman ways that when the Emperor
Tiberius once more tried to limit the wearing of gold rings, he based his
restrictions not on rank but on riches. Only those citizens might wear
rings of gold, he ordained in 22 A.D., whose fathers and grandfathers
held property valued at 400,000 sesterces, $30,000. Jewels, always the
property, were thus also made the prerogative of the hereditary rich.
_The Tide Turns East_
Back from Rome toward the East, with Constantine in 330 A.D., went the
flowering fashions, to riot in Byzantine luxury. The Eastern capital
exceeded the declining city of the West—abandoned to the barbarians and
the popes—in extravagance, in colorful splendor and elaborate intricacy
of design. Gems, no longer reserved for the showy jewels, were sewn upon
or woven into the very texture of garments. In all this profusion, the
crafts of the goldsmith and the lapidary continued to thrive, while the
West lapsed into the dun rigor of the Dark Ages.
_Eastward to India_
More or less independently of the western world, the making of fine
jewels flourished in the Far East. In India the code of Manu, about 250
B.C., prescribed fines for poor workmanship and for the debasing of
gold. A drama of the same period describes a workshop, with pearls and
emeralds, and artisans to grind lapis lazuli, to cut shells, to pierce
coral, and to make the filigree and other ornaments that have persisted
in that part of the world unchanged to our day.
The lavishness of Oriental potentates is proverbial; their collections
of precious stones and elaborate jewels have been as fabulous as their
incalculable wealth. Almost to our own generation birthday gifts to
maharajahs have matched the monarch’s weight in gold or precious stones.
At the greatest period of Indian art, during the reign of the Mogul Shah
Jehan, who died in 1666, the art of jewelry almost merged with that of
architecture. In addition to the celebrated Peacock Throne, the Shah
built the Great Mosque at Delhi, and at Agra the Pearl Mosque and that
triumph of beauty, the Taj Mahal. This was erected as a mausoleum for
his favorite wife, Mumtaz Mahall, who was called “the adornment of the
palace.”
In addition to the designs and patterns of tile that are a feature of
the mosques, the Taj Mahal is adorned with great treasures of the East:
“jasper from the Punjab, carnelians from Broach, turquoises from Tibet,
agates from Yemen, lapis lazuli from Ceylon, coral from Arabia, garnets
from Bundelcund, diamonds from Punnah, rock crystal from Malwar, onyx
from Persia, chalcedony from Asia Minor, sapphires from Colombo.” It
took thirteen years, from 1632 to 1645, to collect these treasures and
construct the mausoleum. The memory of a woman may be buried there, but a
beauty beyond description is preserved.
_Over the Chinese Wall_
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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