Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornmentOstier, Marianne
History
Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornment
Ostier, Marianne
Jewelry
Still farther east, in China, a more restrained and delicate beauty was
developed. Piety and filial devotion taught the Chinese to limit their
display. They cultivated the economy of good taste. The world’s largest
known emerald, found in China, was carved into the figure of Kwan Yin,
goddess of mercy. Jewels were not worn indiscriminately; they served not
only to adorn but to signify station. A mandarin of the first rank wore
ruby or red tourmaline; a mandarin of the second, coral or garnet; of the
third, beryl or lapis lazuli; of the fourth, rock crystal; and of the
fifth, other stones of white.
Beyond all other stones the Chinese prized “the divine stone,” jade.
While this occurs in various shades, even of blue, of red, of brown, it
was, and still is, especially sought in ivory white and in the shades of
green, from light apple to the dark “imperial jade.” This was, legend
whispered, a crystallization of the spirit of the sea. Its possession
conferred longevity, man’s prolonged moment in the eternity of the gods.
A perfect piece of jade is left uncarved. As a pendant, brooch, or ring,
it stands alone, in simple beauty. A cultured Chinese was likely to have
one with him unmounted, just the stone, to cherish it and finger it and
feel its silken surface. There were experts who could tell the quality,
the very color, of a piece of jade, without looking at it, just from the
feel.
Treasured through the centuries in China, jade has come to be prized in
the West as well. The Emperor Kuang-hou sent Queen Victoria, for her
Jubilee, a sceptre of jade. The deep green of the richest jade, the
divine stone, makes it a fit companion for the diamond, the monarch of
gems.
_Dark Age of the Diamond_
The diamond was not mentioned, in this summary narrative, until the
description of the Taj Mahal. This greatest of precious stones—hardest of
gems, and the only one that consists of a single element—was little known
in the ancient world, and but slowly won appreciation in the West. At the
height of the Renaissance, Cellini in 1568 set down the values of the
precious stones, of flawless stones one carat in weight. A ruby of such
specifications was worth 800 gold crowns; an emerald, 400; a diamond, but
100. (The more common sapphire was a far fourth, at ten gold crowns a
carat.)
The Dark Ages in southern Europe were not especially bright with gems.
Individual rulers made some display, on crown, on hilt of sword, and
ecclesiastical splendor was slowly gathering, along with decorated frames
and representations of the Virgin Mary. On the other hand, the medieval
Church frowned upon unseemly extravagance of display, and some monarchs,
even Charlemagne when he doffed his rich crown of state, were sober and
plain in their attire.
_Tribes to the North_
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account