Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornmentOstier, Marianne
History
Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornment
Ostier, Marianne
Jewelry
In the more northerly lands, and among the tribes that in the fourth,
fifth, and sixth centuries pressed upon and twice overran Rome, there was
meanwhile more than a crude attempt at jeweled adornment. The Ostrogoths
made some magnificent brooches, mainly with animal designs. The Visigoths
were fond of garnets, often set on a background of cloisonné. Their
crowns and coronets were elaborately wrought; one of these, belonging to
the Spanish-Gothic King Reccesvinthus (649-672) was given as a votive
offering to the church of Santa Maria near Toledo.
The warlike and otherwise austere Franks took pride in their jeweled
buckles. Their brooches were circular, or formed in the shape of birds.
In Belgium, in the Fifth century, there was considerable carving of
chips, a practice that migrated to Scandinavia. In Sweden there was also
an abundance of circular pendants, beaten of thin gold, and decorated
with animals.
_The Celts and the Emerald Isle_
Among the Celtic peoples were found armlets and fibulas, the latter not
so short in the arch, nor so exquisite, as the Greek pins, nor yet so
long and heavy as the Roman. The Celts had large, crescent-shaped head
ornaments, attached near the ears and standing straight up on either side
like the horned moon. They made heavy gold torques, necklaces of twisted
metal usually tight as a collar. Some of the torques, especially those
in Ireland, were much longer and hung down in massive twists across the
chest. Ireland is called “the Emerald Isle” not from any pride in its
deep green verdure, but from the ring sent by Pope Adrian to Henry II of
England in 1170, a ring set with an emerald, for the King’s investiture
with the dominion of Ireland.
The Scotch, because of the way they wore their plaid, grew to have
exceptionally splendid brooches. A fine one of these, preserved in the
British Museum, is known as the Loch Buy brooch; it is of rock crystal
cut in a convex mound, in a circle of ten projecting turrets each topped
with a pearl. A noteworthy brooch design is that of the pin with arms: a
straight bar down the center, enclosed in two arcs of a circle of beaten
gold.
Although most of their gold designs were hammered down into the metal,
the early Celts also grew expert in répoussé, a process in which, on a
thin sheet of metal, the design is hammered upward from underneath.
_The Anglo-Saxons_
Among the Anglo-Saxons, especially those that settled in Kent, a greater
variety was manifest. They made beads in many shapes and shades of glass
and amber. They were fond of the amethyst set in pure gold. They adorned
their hair with pins tipped with figures of animals and fantastic birds.
They took great pains with the art of enamel, which they fashioned
cloisonné.
_Jewels in English History_
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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