Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornmentOstier, Marianne
History
Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornment
Ostier, Marianne
Jewelry
The agate is a variety of chalcedony. It is named from the river Achates,
in Sicily. A hard stone, of striped or cloudy coloring, it is often
yellow or tawny brown. Shakespeare in _Romeo and Juliet_ uses the agate
in a ring to indicate the size of Queen Mab, who—before Freud brought us
other fancies—was the bringer of dreams:
She is the fairies’ midwife, and she comes
In shape no bigger than an agate-stone
On the forefinger of an alderman ...
In her coach, Queen Mab gallops by night
Through lovers’ brains, and then they dream of love;
O’er courtiers’ knees, that dream on curtsies straight;
O’er lawyers’ fingers, who straight dream on fees;
O’er ladies’ lips, who straight on kisses dream.
_Alexandrite_
The stone alexandrite was given its name from Alexander II (1818-1881),
Czar of all the Russias, in whose realm it was found. It is a variety
of chrysoberyl, containing chromium. It has the interesting quality of
being dark green in daylight, but under artificial illumination glowing
a brilliant red. These were the national colors of Russia, the green
standing for felicity, the red for humanity.
_Amethyst_
The amethyst is a variety of quartz—often called the queen of
quartz—purple or violet in color. It is one of the earliest stones found
in jewelry and has been used in every period. It is especially attractive
in combination with gold and pearls.
People as early as the Greeks have used the amethyst as a talisman
against intoxication. In 1502, Camilli Leonardi observed that the
amethyst protected the mild drinker and cautioned its wearer against
excess; but when its warnings were unheeded, the stone grew wan and
died. There is no question, as I can testify from my direct observation,
that continuing drunkenness of its wearer will cause an amethyst (like a
person) to grow dull.
A motion picture star, well known all over the world—her life recorded
in a major film—some time ago was in quest of an unusual necklace. At
the time, I was in Hollywood as jewelry consultant to a motion picture
company. As I happened to be staying at the same hotel as this actress,
we often went to the studio together, and we became rather friendly.
When she mentioned to me that she had been looking for a necklace that
was distinctive and personalized, I told her that her complexion and
hair coloring made it desirable—in my mind, almost mandatory—for her
to have the jewel made of deep purple Uruguayan amethysts combined with
diamonds. That night I made a sketch of such a jewel, and sent it to her
the next morning. She was enchanted. So was the Hollywood jeweler who was
entrusted with the making of the necklace from my design, for it was a
great success, the talk of the season in the movie colony.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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