Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornmentOstier, Marianne
History
Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornment
Ostier, Marianne
Jewelry
What the jeweler did not tell me—what perhaps he did not know, as neither
did I—was that this glamorous star, with an angelic face and a skin the
poet Byron might despair of describing, used to hide away once a month
or more and drink herself into complete intoxication. We did not know,
but the amethysts did. Within a year the deep velvety purple had faded;
the stones were pale, and they had lost their lustre. The warning of the
amethysts had gone unheeded.
_Aquamarine_
The aquamarine is a pale, transparent, bluish-green variety of beryl.
Being of much the same chemical composition as the emerald, it is
sometimes called blue emerald. Although it is not a rare stone, when step
cut the aquamarine has a pleasant glow, and may be combined with diamonds
to make a distinctive jewel.
_Beryl_
Beryl is, chemically, a silicate of aluminum and glucinum, Be₃Al₂(SiO₃)₆.
It usually forms in hexagonal crystals. When there is also in the stone
some oxide of chromium, it becomes a bright or a deep green: this is the
emerald.
The word beryl covers a large number of hard and lustrous stones. At
first it was applied to clear crystals; thus in the fifteenth century we
find references to “water clear as beryl.” A pale bluish-green variety of
beryl is the aquamarine. A yellow variety is the chrysoberyl (_chrysos_
is the Greek word for gold).
_Carnelian_
The carnelian was originally the cornelian. Because of its flesh color,
the name was changed under the influence of the Latin word for flesh,
_carnem_. Carnelian is a red variety of chalcedony.
_Cat’s-eye_
There are two varieties of the cat’s-eye, equally effective against evil
spirits. The stone may be either olive green, or reddish brown. The most
attractive shades are bamboo and moss green. The distinguishing feature
of the stone is that it seems to have a horizontal slit that sends back
a white band of light, moving with the stone, and resembling the gleam
in the baleful eye of a cat. Other appropriately sinister colorings are
sometimes called tiger’s-eye and hawk’s-eye. The Oriental cat’s-eye is a
mineral of the chrysoberyl group; the Occidental, somewhat less glinting,
is a variety of quartz.
The cat’s-eye, of course, is in wide repute for the power it confers of
seeing in the dark. Thus it is an excellent stone for hunters. But it
proves similarly effective in mental darkness, providing the power for
seeing through the schemes of connivers. Wearing a cat’s-eye may thus
save one from becoming a cat’s-paw. I met a detective recently who was
wearing a superb hawk’s-eye ring; he told me he had just received notice
of his promotion, “with distinction,” to the rank of captain.
_Chalcedony_
Chalcedony is the name of a large group of stones, variously colored,
consisting mainly of non-crystal quartz. It has the lustre of wax.
Chalcedony has been known from early times and is mentioned in the
Bible. Among the stones belonging to this group are agate, carnelian,
chrysoprase, jasper, onyx, and sard.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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