Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornment — John Shaqi
Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornmentOstier, Marianne
History
Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornment
Ostier, Marianne
Jewelry
Quartz is one of the silicas, chemically Si O₂, as is the opal. It is
abundant as a colorless, transparent substance; it also appears as a
brilliant crystal. The name quartz is from the German _zwerg_, meaning
dwarf. Similarly cobalt and nickel are from German words for sprites, the
gnomes being little creatures that work the mine of the gods.
In its crystalline form quartz includes amethyst, cairngorm, citrine,
quartz cat’s-eye, rock crystal, and rose quartz. Another main group
in the quartz family is chalcedony, which includes agate, bloodstone,
carnelian, jasper, moss agate, onyx, sard, and sardonyx. These stones are
used for beads for carving cameos and intaglios.
_Sard_
Sard is a very hard, deep orange-red variety of chalcedony. Its name
rises from the fact that it originally came from Sardis in Asia Minor.
_Sardonyx_
Sardonyx is a variety of onyx in which the alternating layers are of
white chalcedony and sard. It can be cut into beautiful cameos.
The sardonyx is not to be confused with the sardonics, known for their
scornful smile. The latter have no connection with the powers of the
stone; they derive their name from the plant of Sardinia, the island
off Italy. The plant, we are told, was poisonous, and made its victims
sneer while dying. More scientific botanical tales aver that the plant
was bitter, so that its taste at once produced contortions of the mouth.
In either event, the bitter, superior smile of the sardonic comes from
another part of the world than the peaceful sardonyx stone of Sardis,
Asia Minor.
_Spinel_
Spinel is so called, little spine, from the shape of its crystals. It
is a hard mineral, composed mainly of oxide of aluminum, with iron or
magnesium. The proportions of the metals determine the color, which
ranges from rose pink through green, blue, and purple, to black. The red
variety, rare and costly, is sometimes called a spinel ruby. It is also
known as a balas ruby, from Arabian _balakhsh_, from the Persian province
of Balakhshan, where spinels from pink to orange have long been found.
_Topaz_
The topaz ranges widely in color, according as other substances are
present in the complex aluminum silicate that is its basis, chemically
Al₂Si O₄F₂. It is transparent, crystalline, and may be white, pale
blue, or pale green; but the yellow shade (produced by the presence of
fluorine) is preferred for use in a jewel. It often develops its crystals
in large clusters; the National Museum in Washington has one weighing 153
pounds.
Brazilian topaz is genuine topaz. Oriental topaz, however, is a yellowish
crystalline corundum; Occidental topaz, a yellow quartz, citrine.
Topazolite is a yellow variety of garnet.
The topaz is mentioned in the Bible as the ninth foundation stone of
the New Jerusalem. It has not entered greatly into literature, being
an undramatic stone, and is not usually at its best when combined with
others; but it can be so fashioned as to display a serene and quiet
beauty.
_Tourmaline_
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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