Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornmentOstier, Marianne
History
Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornment
Ostier, Marianne
Jewelry
Feldspar (also felspar, meaning spar of the field) is any of a group of
crystalline minerals, made up mainly of aluminum silicates. They are
glassy and moderately hard, and are found among igneous rocks. Spar is
the name of various shiny materials that break off easily, in chips
or flakes. Few of these varieties are used in ornaments, but the even
milk-white tone of a good moonstone makes it effective in jewels.
_Onyx_
Named, because of its pale color, from the Greek word for nail, onyx is a
variety of agate. It consists of alternate layers of different colored
stone, as can be seen around the edge; this makes it prized for carving,
especially in cameos.
_Opal_
The opal was represented in such variety in early times that the word
_upala_ was the general Sanskrit term for a precious stone. The opal
comprises a large group of vitreous, translucent silicas, possessing the
property of refracting light and then reflecting it in a play of colors.
Silica is a dioxide of silicon, chemically Si O₂, a hard glassy mineral
that includes quartz and sand as well as opal. According as the compound
includes iron, magnesium or other elements, the color of the stone varies.
The best opals are the result of a flaw in their formation. Being
hydrated silicas, they were at first a sort of semi-liquid, jellified
substance; as this hardened, cracks and fissures were created by
unevenness in the material and in the speed of the hardening. These
tiny spaces trapped air or moisture, and it is this that produces the
phenomenon of refraction and reflection of light and gives the colorings
and variations known as opalescence. The play of light is at its best
when the stone is cut cabochon, except for the fire opal, which is
faceted.
There are three chief varieties of opal. The common or white opal has
a cloudy-white background, with pastel patches that often give it a
veritable sunrise glow. The black opal has actually a very dark green
background, in which there are deep pools of blue and green with patches
of flame. Rare, and most magnificent, is the fire opal, which seems
almost transparent, its body of smooth reddish orange shooting forth into
flame.
The opal is a delicate stone. It may be damaged by heat. It absorbs
grease, and may thus become dull. The outstanding and valued feature of
the stone is its opalescence. This creates a constantly changing, almost
kaleidoscopic play of lights. It is this variability that gives point to
the reference in Shakespeare’s _Twelfth Night_: “Now the melancholy god
protect thee, and the tailor make thy garment of changeable taffeta, for
thy mind is a very opal.”
_Peridot_
The peridot, a yellowish-green variety of chrysolite, was popular in
early England. It fell from favor but was reintroduced from France in
the seventeenth century. It is a beautiful stone, often as large as 30
carats, and again growing in favor.
_Quartz_
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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