Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornmentOstier, Marianne
History
Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornment
Ostier, Marianne
Jewelry
Deep green and translucent, this stone at its best is very rare. It was
prized before and beyond all other stones and, for large flawless gems,
outvies the diamond. Among church stones it ranks very high; Andreas,
Bishop of Caesarea, wrote of the emerald: “Its transparency and beauty
may not change; we conceive the stone to signify John the Evangel.”
The potency of the emerald has been extolled in various fields. It was
especially prized as a panacea for poisons. In this field, it was an
admirable alexipharmic; it protected against poison from fangèd bite,
and from the gangrene of wounds. It warded off the dangers of poison
artfully secreted in food; also, of poison from eating the wrong food,
as toadstools for mushrooms, spoiled food, or just too much food. And it
preserved one from that most pestilent of all poisons, the poisoning of
the mind.
Still more widespread was the use of the emerald as a talisman and a
cure-all for the eye. The calming influence of its dark green hue has
been recognized from early times to the modern eye shade. The Roman
Emperor Nero, who suffered from an eye ailment, used to hold a specially
ground emerald before his eye to relieve the strain, and to enjoy the
relaxation that came with its gentle soothing. In the early Renaissance
the watchmakers and the goldsmiths, their eyes bleary from long strain
at their fine operations, would pause in their work and gaze upon an
emerald. The emerald is the only stone that delights the eye without ever
bringing fatigue.
Less worthy use was made of the emerald by those ambitious in love. In
the Orient, the emerald was the token of love and was often used to
adorn the statues of the god or the goddess of love. But later it became
associated (as were the gods themselves) with the more passionate aspects
of love. Then the emerald was employed—often, of course, as a bribe to
the pandar or a gift to the girl, but also as a talisman—by those who
sought success in their amours.
It is in its more peaceful aspects, of the green and eye-enchanting
colors of May, that one cherishes the emerald.
Spring in its glory
Tells the bright story
Of the young year at play.
It tries on the sheen
Of gold and of green:
Emerald’s the precious for May.
_June: Pearl_
Who comes with summer to this earth
And owes to June her day of birth,
With ring of pearl upon her hand
Can health, wealth, happiness command.
And what is so rare as a day in June?
Then, if ever, come perfect days,
Then heaven tries earth, if it be in tune,
And over it softly her warm ear lays.
Whether we look, or whether we listen,
We hear life murmur, and see it glisten.
What symbol of glistening life could be more significant than the
lustrous pearl? It is one of the gems that delights in more than the
beholding, for the feel of the soft fine smoothness of the gem is like
the petal of a pansy.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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