Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornmentOstier, Marianne
History
Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornment
Ostier, Marianne
Jewelry
While the pearl does not have the brilliance and fire of a well-cut
precious stone, it has a soft glow unique among gems, and an amazing
variety of glints and shadings around its basic hue, from the purest
white to the darkest black. Most desired of its dark shades is the
“mordoré,” a greenish coppery iridescence over black. This, however, is
so rare that not more than four necklaces of such pearls are known. More
frequent among the valued shades are the cream and the light pink pearl.
A pearl is in its very being a symbol, the triumphant growth of beauty
from disease. It marks the victory over drawbacks and handicaps, the
building of one’s treasure out of one’s disadvantages.
From its gentle color and its smooth shape, the pearl came to be the
symbol of modesty and purity. It was endowed with many powers. It brought
succor in times of distress. It cemented friendships, out of first
likings fashioning firm ties. It strengthened a weak heart and a weak
memory. It gave maids courage to resist, and men stoutheartedness to
overcome, evil.
Especially in the Orient, where it was first widely known, there have
been many uses of the pearl. It was combined in jewels, used alone
in many-stranded chains, woven into garments, woven in or hung upon
tapestries that decked the walls of palaces. It was embroidered not only
on women’s garments, but on priestly and ceremonial robes. There can
hardly be a treasure in which the precious stones are not accompanied by
pearls.
The soft lustre of the pearl, and its natural shape, inevitably linked
it with the teardrop. Indeed, what are pearls but the crystalline tears
of the angels, weeping over man’s indiscretions? The Romantics suggested
that the pearl may sometimes bring tears. The materialists retorted that
the tears were of vexation, shed by those that could not afford the
pearls. But every morning of a clear June day, the teardrops are on every
blade of grass, the glistening dew that is the brief land-pearl.
Hand in hand
All over the land
Lover leads his girl;
Merrily wedded,
Cosily bedded:
June’s for the shimmering pearl.
_July: Ruby_
The glowing ruby should adorn
Those who in warm July are born;
Then they will be exempt and free
From love’s doubt and anxiety.
With July, the heat of the sun begins to burn into bright flame the
colors of approaching autumn. The range of red is in the ruby, from pale
pink to that deep shade known as pigeon-blood. Rarest of all stones,
the flawless ruby was endowed with the mightiest powers. The ancients,
feeling its hidden forces, called it “the stone of life.”
The wearer of the ruby had naught but courage in his heart; he knew
no fear. Well might this be, for in his mind the ruby rendered him
invincible. The Russian Czar, Peter the Great, who scorned jewelry,
always carried loose rubies in his pocket; he held one clenched in his
fist when he gave orders for the exploits that justify his name.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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