Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornmentOstier, Marianne
History
Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornment
Ostier, Marianne
Jewelry
How much can be worn in the hair depends upon its styling. The chignon,
or other knot behind, permits the use of comb or ornamental pin. The most
elaborate of the combs, looking best on a tall woman with dark hair, is
the Spanish comb, consisting of a few teeth below a large crest of shell
often encrusted with stones. Less favored, but attractive with more
exotic types, is the Japanese pin, a long rod of carved ivory or of black
lacquered wood decorated in colors and usually worn in a pair.
Few women, outside of the nobility on state occasions, wear the metal
bands set or peaked with gems, called indiscriminately diadems or tiaras.
Such a band of precious metals and stones, worn by a prince or noble
of high rank, is the coronet. The monarch himself, as an emblem of
sovereignty, wears a more elaborate circlet or head covering, the royal
crown.
_Royal Crowns of Britain_
Most famous of the royal crowns are those of the British Empire, three
for the monarch, two for his queen. First of the three is the reputed
crown of Edward the Confessor, which was destroyed by the Commonwealth.
It was reproduced by Charles II and, with its inner Cap of Maintenance,
has been worn at all the English Coronations since 1661. It is of “massie
golde” and weighs four pounds. Since neither this, nor the Imperial Crown
of State, may leave the British Isles, a special Imperial Crown of India,
the third royal crown, was made for the investiture of George V at Delhi
in 1911.
By far the most magnificent of the three royal crowns is the Imperial
Crown of State. This may officially be made anew for each new monarch,
but the crown that showed the glory of Queen Victoria in 1839 has with
few modifications been used by all her successors. This great crown
is adorned with historic treasures of the centuries. The great pearl
earrings of Elizabeth I are nested here; the sapphire from Edward the
Confessor’s Coronation Ring; the Stuart Sapphire, an oval an inch and a
half by an inch; the Black Prince’s ruby, large as a hen’s egg. Although
the Star of Africa, the world’s largest cut diamond, a pear-shaped
brilliant of about 530 carats, crowns the head of the royal sceptre,
two other brilliants cut from the same rough diamond adorn the Imperial
Crown. One, the cushion-shaped diamond in the band, below the Black
Prince’s ruby, weighs 309³⁄₁₆ carats; the other, of 96 carats, is to the
side of the band. Literally thousands of other precious stones, including
smaller diamonds of various cuts and sizes, make the British Imperial
Crown of State, at one time signifying dominion over the most widespread
of all empires, the most imposing of all crowns.
_Everywoman’s Queen_
Far from the Imperial Crowns though she may be, every woman is the
monarch of her own beauty. When she sits before a mirror, a woman sees
both the material of beauty and the artist who must work with that
material. And the first thing an artist must learn is the potentialities
of the material.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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