Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornmentOstier, Marianne
History
Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornment
Ostier, Marianne
Jewelry
Men were adorned, in earlier days, fully as much as women. They wore not
only finger rings but earrings. At one of the oldest known cities, Ur
of the Chaldees, a gold earring has been unearthed from the sarcophagus
of a monarch who ruled 4,700 years ago. The burial place of the Pharaoh
Tutankhamen, dug up in 1922, contained amber earrings. Ancient Assyrian
kings, with their hierarchy of priests and their cohorts of soldiers,
are shown on ancient carvings—all with adornments for the ears. When
Moses was up in the clouds on Mount Sinai receiving the Ten Commandments
on tables of stone, Aaron in the valley, preparing to make gods for the
people, said unto them: “Break off the golden earrings, which are in the
ears of your wives, of your sons....”
As the Roman Republic grew effeminate with wealth and luxury, earrings
were more popular among men than women; no less a “he-man” than Julius
Caesar himself brought back to repute and fashion the use of rings in
the ears of men. In Persia of the thirteenth century, the vogue was so
popular that the Sassanian kings had engravings of themselves, wearing
their earrings, set as signet stones upon their fingers.
Elizabethan England found earrings tossed with the heads of Italianate
dandiprats. Shakespeare’s Othello wore them, and to our own day the stage
Moor (as well as the cinema pirate) wears a gold loop in at least one
ear. But through the next century the English macaronis (fops who are
mocked in our “Yankee Doodle” song) continued to flaunt earrings upon
the Puritan public. Charles I of England went to his execution in 1649
disdainfully dressed in all his finery, including a ring in his right
ear. Perhaps it was the lopping of that royal head that helped to end the
fashion for men.
Women, however, have continued to wear earrings to enhance their beauty.
At times, when other jewels were growing oversized, the earrings also
grew enormous. In Sumer, over four thousand years ago, Queen Shubad
wore great golden half-moons. Women in ancient Phoenicia vied with one
another in the size of their earrings. Old Etruscan ear ornaments bore
little boxes for perfume or for charms. In the fourth century B.C. the
Greek hetaerae wore cupids on their ears. Queen Victoria, twenty-three
centuries later, saw the vogue of gold-rimmed cameos close against the
ears, from which hung larger cameos. But whether it be the stalwart
Bahri matron in Central Africa who slips through her ear lobe half a
hundred separate loops of elephant hair, or the proud Zulu maiden who
has stretched her lobes until an ivory tube half an inch in diameter is
pushed through, or the dainty city lass with a pearl clipped close upon
each ear—the earring is an almost universal jewel, worn as an adjunct to
human beauty.
_The Significance of the Ears_
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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