Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornmentOstier, Marianne
History
Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornment
Ostier, Marianne
Jewelry
Perhaps the prevalence of the earrings indicates that something is wrong
with the ear. It is an essential organ, well placed and well shaped for
its function, but aesthetically a bit obtrusive. For note that the ears,
while they frame the face, are amenable to none of the usual resources of
cosmetics. The hair, in addition to being neatly styled, can be variously
tinted. Proper application of powder and color can seem to alter the
shape or the length of the nose. The cheeks can not only be colored but
by deft use of powder and rouge can be given a different outline. The
eyes can be accented with color; they can be made more naive or more
beguiling. The lips can be made to seem smaller, more sweetly innocent,
more bold. But when all the make-up skills have been applied, the ears
remain unaltered.
And yet the look of the ears may make or mar the whole appearance.
The choice of earclips, it should be clear, must depend not upon the
attractiveness of the jewel but upon the effect it has in ameliorating
the facial features. Earclips can play up a small, dainty nose, or
minimize a large one. Earclips can, according as she chooses them, make a
woman look younger or older, smarter, more sophisticated, or more simple
and sweet—and always prettier.
_The Earclip and the Facial Contour_
Other jewels may with some degree of safety be purchased from the box.
A ring, even a brooch, will not alter much from the way it looks on the
velvet of a counter or the satin of a case. But an earclip becomes part
of the contour of a face. It must be seen, as others will see it, from
various angles, profile and full face. Since no two ears, no two sides
of the same face, are exactly alike, both clips should be tried on, and
their effect carefully examined. They should be looked at without a hat,
so that the whole sweep of the head may be considered. Conversely, when
hats are being tried on, one’s favorite earclips should be worn to judge
their effect with the contemplated hat. However large or tiny—a band of
velvet or a fluff of feathers—the hat and the clips should complement one
another.
On some faces, at certain angles, there is a space between the earlobe
and the cheek. As this breaks the harmony of line, it should be covered
by the clip. In such cases, the earclip should be worn as close as
possible to the face. If the cheekbones are large or high, suggesting
hollows below, a large earclip, properly placed, will seem to fill out
the face. Heavy earclips could be set in palladium, the lightest of the
major jewel metals. Sometimes a piquant contour can be created, as when
a soft hat is tilted down over one ear, with the earclip worn only in the
uncovered ear. The second clip may then be worn on the jacket lapel or on
the dress.
_The Shape of Your Face_
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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