Throughout all this part of Marocco we were struck by the abundance
of a dwarf plant of the artichoke tribe (_Cynara humilis_), which
plays an important part in the domestic economy of the natives. It is
almost stemless, and produces (at a later season) a large blue head
of flower from the midst of a great tuft of much divided and very
spiny leaves. Though not cultivated, it grows in great abundance in
waste spots and the margins of fields on clay soil. Great piles of
it were exposed for sale about the land gate of Tangier; and every
morning whole processions of men, women, children, and donkeys,
all laden with the same substance, were to be seen taking the
same direction. It was painful to watch the women, half veiled,
but not so as to disguise their age and ugliness, staggering onward,
with huge bare legs and feet, under balloon-like loads of this spiny
burden, tied up in a large coarse cloth. At this season the foliage
serves as fodder for animals; somewhat later, when the heads are
approaching the flowering state, they are extensively consumed as
food for the human population, the end of the stem and the receptacle
being eaten raw, as artichokes are in many parts of Southern Europe.
Though, to judge from the extent of tillage, the population cannot be
very small in this part of the country, we saw but few habitations,
and those of the most miserable description—chiefly low mud hovels
in small groups, seemingly built with a view to avoid observation
in out-of-the-way spots, and never near to the main track. In this
region the natives are of mixed race, partly Moors and partly of
Bereber stock, descendants of Riff people, who have come down from
their mountains to settle in the low country.
We made our mid-day halt in a rich green level tract that lies
between the first and lower hills, and a second and more considerable
range which connects the Angera Mountains on the north with the
higher mass of the Riff Mountains south of Tetuan. The drainage
of this broad valley seems to flow southward till it falls into
a considerable stream, descending from the high peaks of Beni
Hassan and its neighbouring summits, that reaches the sea on the
west coast some eighteen miles south of Cape Spartel. Our eyes were
here gratified by the sight of comparatively fine trees, everywhere
so scarce in Marocco. Of these the most conspicuous is a southern
species of ash, very like the common tree. It is the _Fraxinus
oxyphylla_ of Bieberstein, which extends from Southern Russia and
the Levant to Spain and Marocco. The leaves and fruit are smaller,
but in this district the tree rivals in stature our native British
species. Poplars are common beside the streams, which are fringed
by tall oleanders and willows, and in drier spots the fig, carob,
and olive grow to a large size. The almond tree is also common,
but does not appear to have naturalised itself.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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