Animal life does not seem to be abundant; but some of the birds
were new enough to our eyes to diversify the way; The commonest is
the stork, which appears, from a sense of entire security, to have
assumed a tone of complete intimacy with his human neighbours. He
may be seen about the houses, familiar with the little brown-faced,
black-eyed boys, or striding majestically through the crops, or
wheeling slowly in wide circles through the air, till he suddenly
stops, drops his long legs that had been stretched out behind him
during flight, and, poising himself on them like an acrobat on
loose stilts, comes to rest. A blue headed bee-eater, apparently
the same species that is extremely common in South Marocco, was
also seen during our ride.
As we began to ascend the main range of hills that still separated
us from Tetuan we overtook a couple of wild-looking fellows,
one carrying a tambourine, the other a cylindrical basket, who
soon showed that they wanted to attract our attention. Our stately
interpreter, riding along with his nose in the air, purblinded by
his blue goggles, took no notice of them till one sat down and began
tom-toming on the tambourine; and Bulbo, ever ready for amusement,
soon enticed us to see the snake charmers. These have been so often
described, that it is enough to make a few notes on the natural
history of the exhibition. The object of the tom-toming—at first
gentle and lastly furious—with which the performance commences, is
clearly to aid the charmer in his endeavours to addle his brains, and
deaden his nervous susceptibility, so that he may better encounter
the pain, which, though not intense, must be considerable. His
own share commenced by frenzied dancing and bodily contortions,
and above all rolling his head violently from side to side. This
accomplished, the basket was opened, and after a good deal of
hustling two magnificent snakes unwillingly glided out, raised their
beautiful heads, looking as proud as swans, glanced scornfully about,
and very naturally tried to get back. This the charmer prevented, and
still keeping up his abnormal nervous condition by rolling his head
and eyes, bullied one of them into biting his arm, and then his hand
between the thumb and forefinger, and drawing blood. He next vainly
tried to make a snake strike at his forehead, and then prevailed on
it to seize on his nose, and lastly on his protruded tongue, where
it held on, probably attracted by the moisture, for some seconds,
leaving two bleeding wounds on the upper surface of the organ,
and as many on the under. With the snakes still hanging about him,
the hero concluded the performance by laboriously thrusting a skewer
through his cheek, which had no doubt been previously perforated
for the purpose; after this the serpents were allowed to retire
into the basket, which they were nothing loth to do. In these
performances, which have been seen by most travellers in Egypt
and India, there is little doubt that the poison-fangs have been
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