Guyana -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Guyana
The first ten or twenty miles consisted of huge sugar estates, recently
awakened to feverish activity by the war prices of this commodity.
Golden Fleece, Taymouth Manor, Capoey, Move Success, Anna Regina,
Hampton Court--all old names long famous in the history of the colony.
In many other districts the Dutch have left not only a heritage of
names, such as Vreeden-Hoop and Kyk-over-al, but the memory of a grim
sense of humor, as in the case of three estates lying one beyond the
other, which the owners named in turn, Trouble, More Trouble, and Most
Trouble. Unlike our southern plantations, the workers' quarters are
along the road, with the big house of the manager well back, often quite
concealed. The coolies usually live in long, communal, barrack-like
structures, the negroes in half-open huts.
This first part of the Pomeroon road was one long ribbon of variegated
color: Hundreds of tiny huts, with picturesque groups of coolies and
negroes and a smaller number of Chinese, all the huts dilapidated, some
leaning over, others so perforated that they looked like the ruins of
European farmhouses after being shelled. Patched, propped up, tied
together, it was difficult to believe that they were habitable. All were
embowered in masses of color and shadowed by the graceful curves of
cocoanut palms and bananas. The sheets of bougainvillea blossoms, of
yellow allamandas, and the white frangipani temple flowers of the East,
brought joy to the eye and the nostril; the scarlet lilies growing rank
as weeds--all these emphasized the ruinous character of the huts. Along
the front ran a trench, doubling all the glorious color in reflection,
except where it was filled with lotus blossoms and Victoria regia.
As we passed swiftly, the natives rushed out on the shaky board-and-log
bridges, staring in wonder, the women with babies astride of their
hips, the copper-skinned children now and then tumbling into the water
in their excitement. The yellows and reds and greens of the coolies
added another color-note. Everything seemed a riot of brilliant pigment.
Against the blue sky great orange-headed vultures balanced and
volplaned; yellow-gold kiskadees shrieked blatantly, and, silhouetted
against the green fronds, smote both eye and ear.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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