What is known as the Schiffli, or power machine, is very similar to the
hand-embroidering device, being an improvement on the latter and worked
with a shuttle in addition to the needles. Its capacity is nearly eight
times greater, or from 15,000 to 18,000 stitches per day, against 2,000 to
3,000 on the hand machine. To offset this advantage, however, the Schiffli
machine is much more expensive, and is of delicate and complicated
construction, easily got out of order and costly to repair. Until a
comparatively recent date the Schiffli was not considered as a competitor
of the hand machine, its work being inferior in quality and confined to
simple patterns. At present, however, it is generally conceded that the
goods produced by it not only compete with the hand-machine products, but
are already superseding the latter to some extent. It is predicted that the
Schiffli machine, operated by power, will ultimately supply all the
embroidery in the low and medium grades. {21}
The variety and adaptability of the designs which both of these machines
are capable of producing are endless, and at the same time comparatively
inexpensive. It is this latter fact which accounts for the great advantage
of the embroidering machine over the lace machine. The preparing and
setting of a design for a lace machine is very expensive, and the great
cost compels the manufacturer of machine lace to turn out large quantities
of one set pattern in order to get a return from his investment.
About the beginning of the nineteenth century, lace machines were first
introduced into France from Nottingham, at Boulogne-sur-mer, where the
industry remained for a few years and then moved to Calais. There this
industry has developed and increased to such proportions that Calais is now
the principal city for the production of fine laces of all kinds, and
practically leads Nottingham in creating novelties and new and original
effects. Shortly after the Franco-Prussian war the industry found a
foothold in Caudry, in the north of France, where it has also developed to
quite large proportions, and shares to-day a large part of the trade which
has resulted from the founding of the parent industry in Calais. The kind
of lace produced in Caudry is generally of a cheaper character than that
produced in Calais.
In Lyons, too, there has been established for many years the industry of
making laces and nettings by mechanical processes. This is still a very
large industry, and about twenty years ago there was a large trade done
with America in the manufacture of laces in vogue at that time, which were
the imitation of the real Spanish, called "Blonde Grenade." There are still
made in Lyons to-day various imitations of fine laces, which in a general
way are of a different quality to the laces made at Calais or Caudry, and
Lyons enjoys a reputation in regard to the character of the laces it
produces which is unique in the trade.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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